Technique Index

Most of these posts are notes on links to good tutorials by other people, but some are tutorials written by me.

There’s a huge amount of good sewing guidance from these sites :
University of Kentucky – pdfs with line diagrams, not very visual.
sew4home – blog post style with photos (and many ads), search box at top.

Basting/ tacking – by hand, machine, basting tape

Bias tape
Cut and fold your own fabric, including special sewing machine feet.

Bias binding
Bias binding covers over an edge, and is visible from both front and back of that edge.
Bias binding, couture application, photo tutorial by Brooks Ann Camper.
pdf on binding from The Sewing Place.
Corners in binding, brief instructions for every type in this tutorial from Wearing History.
A lengthy photo tutorial from Sew4Home has many tips on making bias strips, also instructions for ’quick and easy’ application of bias binding with a single line of machine stitching.

Bias facing is a bias strip also applied as an edge finish but visible from only one side of the fabric. Most tutorials for this give very wrinkled results, I’m working on a post about how to avoid all the causes of distortion.

Burrito method
Examples of using it for lined yokes, lined dresses, finishing a shawl collar.

Buttonholes
Basic machine sewn and 4-step buttonholes
Hand sewn buttonhole

Collar
Making the collar piece :
Tutorial on assembling collars, not attaching them, by Mary Danielson Perry at WeAllSew. (Of course use your own brand of machine, the Reverse Pattern foot is the basic all purpose foot. Plus your own edge-stitch foot.)
Making a perfect point by David Page Coffin in Seamwork magazine.
Attaching a Band Collar :
I don’t know why everyone describes the most difficult way of doing this. Here’s a detailed photo tutorial on attaching a band collar in easy steps, from Andrea Brown of Four Square Walls.
Similar method with some added tips in a photo tutorial from Wardrobe By Me for sewing a collar band. Of course you can add a main collar piece before sewing the two band pieces together, as in Andrea Brown’s tutorial.
Here’s another less traditional way of attaching a banded collar – a pdf by Lynn Cook of Australian Stitches.

Curves
Pivot round a curve
Matching curves – second half of post
Sewing inward and outward curves, from sew4home

Cutting out – is always shown with the pattern on the left of the scissors. I get better results with the pattern on the right. Odd I know, but try it and see which works best for you. I haven’t got steady enough hands to use a rotary cutter without a ruler. And I use pins about every 4″/10cm, more round a sharp curve. But I do find it’s worth the extra work of drawing round the pattern onto the fabric and then cutting on the drawn line – I get a much better result than trying to copy the edge of paper.

Embellishment
Piece and decorate (Sewingplums)
Hand embroidery stitches – clear videos for stitching, from Needle ‘n Thread
Types of embroidery machine design, note from Embroidery Online.
Start using an embroidery machine – basics
Start using an embroidery machine – next steps

Fabric grain
Straighten the fabric grain
Lay pattern on straight of grain

Fabrics
Fleece, from Threads magazine
PVC / Vinyl, video from How to Sew
Knit Fabrics
Sewing knit fabrics on a sewing machine
Stretch stitch settings on a sewing machine

Fabric button loops – see Rouleaux

Facings
Faced slash-slit opening (Sewingplums)
Facings – much good guidance in this written tutorial from the University of Kentucky, click on icon to see pdf.
Here’s a tutorial from What Katie Sews, on ‘non-flipping’ facings. She extends the facings out to the armhole seams, which solves many of the wearing problems.

Fastenings
Hooks and eyes, thread loops, snaps.
Couture methods for those, video from Susan Khalje.

Fitting
Common fit challenges
Ease levels (Sewingplums)
Adding width – videos from Louise Cutting on various ways of widening for bust and / or hips.
Full Bust Adjustment – Debbie Cook’s tutorials on doing an FBA on various pattern styles – scroll down to her Alterations.
Advice on pants fit, a post with diagrams of problems and solutions from Closet Case Files.
Fitting your crotch curve using a bendy ruler, 2 videos and photo tutorial from Joyful Expressions

Gathering stitches, gathering foot – by hand, machine, machine gathering foot, shirring with elastic bobbin thread

Hand stitching
Starting and finishing hand stitching
Basting, running, gathering
Backstitch, combination stitch
Blanket stitch, buttonhole stitch (they’re different !)
Overcasting and whipstitch/ overhanding
Ladder stitch
Hemming, Colette patterns
Hand embroidery stitches – clear videos for stitching, from Needle ‘n Thread

Hems – by hand and machine

Knit fabric – see Fabrics

Lining
Bag your jacket Lining, from Threads magazine.
Jacket lining by hand and machine methods, pdf from the University of Kentucky.
Lining a skirt, pdf from the University of Kentucky.
Easy Guide to Sewing Linings, Threads magazine eBook (not free).

Marking
Marking tools and methods
Tracing wheel, tracing paper

Mistakes
Unpicking and recovering from mistakes

Openings / Plackets
Faced slash-slit opening (Sewingplums)
Sleeve opening plackets :
Continuous band sleeve placket – The secret of success lies in the initial stay-stitching (as well as working slowly and carefully). Don’t sew a sharp-bottomed Vee, sew and Y-cut a blunt bottomed Vee – see my tutorial on sewing a faced slit opening.
Traditional ’tower / steeple /castle / house’ sleeve placket :
2 main methods, using 1 or 2 fabric pieces.
– 1 fabric piece : shirt placket pdf from Lynn Cook of Australian Stitches.
– 2 fabric pieces : sleeve placket tutorial from shirtmaker Pam Erny.
Neck opening plackets :
Polo placket – added fabric strip hidden behind the main fabric. Sewn the same way as the continuous band sleeve placket.
Henley placket – added fabric strip is visible. Sewn the same way as a tower/steeple shirt sleeve placket.
[hmm – some people name them the other way round. . .]

Pattern ‘hacking’
Guidance about the simplest methods of altering a pattern is in this post from Sewingplums.
Pattern altering to make new styles – see this page of Sewingplums for links to more posts about altering patterns to make new styles.

Piping
Make piping and attach to a straight edge, photo tutorial from Bernina.
Attaching round a gentle curve, video from Milton Upholstery Supplies.
Attaching round a right angle corner, video from Expert Village.
Domestic machine – use zipper foot and make the piping before attaching it, see Bernina tutorial.

Pockets
Single welt pockets tutorial from In House Patterns.
Double welt pockets tutorial from Andrea Brown at Craftsy.

Points
Making a perfect point by David Page Coffin in Seamwork magazine

Pressing
Pressing an open seam
Using a pressing ham

Rouleaux for fabric button loops

Ruffles from Sew Essential, see also Gathering

Seams and seam finishes
Sewing an open (plain) seam
Pressing an open seam

Five seam finishing techniques (Sew Essential)
Getting a better zigzag seam finish
Examples of serged seam finishes from sdBev
Hong Kong and bias bound seams, tutorial from Closet Case Files.

Enclosed or ‘self-finished’ seams :
French seam, curved french seam, mock french seam.
Flat fell seam without a special folding foot, from ejvc.
Flat fell seam ending in a seam split, from Carolyn.
Lapped seams and darts in non-fray fabrics – see half way down this tutorial from The Sewing Workshop.

Sleeves
Fitted armhole sewn ‘in the round’. Strong differences of opinion here. Some people like to sew in a sleeve with the sleeve cap down, next to the feed dogs. I like to sew with the sleeve up. Here is a video from Londa Rohlfling.
Armhole sewn ‘flat’. Here’s a photo tutorial from Blueprints for Sewing, with an easy way of avoiding ugly lumpiness at the underarm.
Square armholes – that way of avoiding underarm lumps doesn’t work with these, I’m planning a post.

Staystitching

Thread bar
Couture method video from Susan Khalje.

Yoke
Burrito method for sewing a lined yoke.

Zippers
Invisible zipper post, the classic method.
Or here’s a very different method, from Sew Essential, which aims to remove the problem of the lump at the bottom of an invisible zip.
This free Craftsy video class covers classic (slot seam), invisible, lapped zippers. Does not cover exposed, inset, open ended/ separating, fly or mock fly zips.
This Craftsy video class, not free, includes classic (slot), exposed, fly, invisible, lapped, separating zippers.
Shortening zippers of all types – post from Threads magazine

– – –

See also :
– right side menu for links to sites with guidance for beginner sewers.

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