Technique Index

Most of these posts are notes on links to good tutorials by other people, but some are tutorials written by me.

There’s a huge amount of good sewing guidance from these sites :

University of Kentucky
– pdfs with line diagrams, not very visual.
sew4home – blog post style with photos, search box at top.

Basting/ tacking – by hand, machine, basting tape

Bias tape
Cut and fold your own fabric, including special sewing machine feet.

Basic machine sewn and 4-step buttonholes
Hand sewn buttonhole

Tutorial on assembling collars, not attaching them, by Mary Danielson Perry at WeAllSew. (Of course use your own brand of machine, the Reverse Pattern foot is the basic all purpose foot. Plus your own edge-stitch foot.)
Making a perfect point by David Page Coffin in Seamwork magazine.
Attaching a Band Collar : I don’t know why everyone describes the most difficult way of doing this. Here’s a detailed photo tutorial on attaching a band collar in easy steps, from Andrea Brown of Four Square Walls.
Similar method with some added tips in a photo tutorial from Wardrobe By Me for sewing a collar band. Of course you can add a main collar piece before sewing the two band pieces together, as in Andrea Brown’s tutorial.
Here’s another less traditional way of attaching a banded collar – a pdf by Lynn Cook of Australian Stitches.

Pivot round a curve
Matching curves – second half of post
Sewing inward and outward curves, from sew4home

Cutting out – is always shown with the pattern on the left of the scissors. I get better results with the pattern on the right. Odd I know, but try it and see which works best for you. I haven’t got steady enough hands to use a rotary cutter without a ruler. And I use pins about every 4″/10cm, more round a sharp curve.

Piece and decorate (Sewingplums)

Fabric grain
Straighten the fabric grain
Lay pattern on straight of grain

PVC / Vinyl, video from How to Sew
Knit Fabrics
Sewing knit fabrics on a sewing machine
Stretch stitch settings on a sewing machine

Fabric button loops – see Rouleaux

Faced slash-slit opening (Sewingplums)
Facings – much good guidance in this written tutorial from the University of Kentucky, click on icon to see pdf.
Here’s a tutorial from What Katie Sews, on ‘non-flipping’ facings. She extends the facings out to the armhole seams, which solves many of the wearing problems.

Hooks and eyes, thread loops, snaps.
Couture methods for those, video from Susan Khalje.

Common fit challenges
Ease levels (Sewingplums)
Adding width – videos from Louise Cutting on various ways of widening for bust and / or hips.
Full Bust Adjustment – Debbie Cook’s tutorials on doing an FBA on various pattern styles – scroll down to her Alterations.
Advice on pants fit, a post with diagrams of problems and solutions from Closet Case Files.

Gathering stitches, gathering foot – by hand, machine, machine gathering foot, shirring with elastic bobbin thread

Hand stitching
Starting and finishing hand stitching
Basting, running, gathering
Backstitch, combination stitch
Blanket stitch, buttonhole stitch (they’re different !)
Overcasting and whipstitch/ overhanding
Ladder stitch
Hemming, Colette patterns
Hand embroidery stitches – clear videos for stitching, from Needle ‘n Thread

Hems – by hand and machine

Knit fabric – see Fabrics

Bag your jacket Lining, from Threads magazine.
Jacket lining by hand and machine methods, pdf from the University of Kentucky.
Lining a skirt, pdf from the University of Kentucky.
Easy Guide to Sewing Linings, Threads magazine eBook (not free).

Marking tools and methods
Tracing wheel, tracing paper

Unpicking and recovering from mistakes

Openings / Plackets
Faced slash-slit opening (Sewingplums)
Continuous band sleeve placket opening – The secret of success lies in the initial stay-stitching (as well as working slowly and carefully). Don’t sew a sharp-bottomed Vee, sew and Y-cut a blunt bottomed Vee – see my tutorial on sewing a faced slit opening.
Traditional ’tower / steeple’ sleeve placket – a pdf from Lynn Cook of Australian Stitches. Or there’s this sleeve placket tutorial from Pam Erny.

Pattern altering
Guidance about the simplest methods of altering a pattern is in this post from Sewingplums.
Pattern altering to make new styles – see this page of Sewingplums for links to more posts about altering patterns to make new styles.

Make and attach to a straight edge, photo tutorial from Bernina.
Attaching round a gentle curve, video from Milton Upholstery Supplies.
Attaching round a right angle corner, video from Expert Village.
Domestic machine – use zipper foot and make the piping before attaching it, see Bernina tutorial.

Double welt pockets, photo tutorial from Andrea Brown at Craftsy.

Making a perfect point by David Page Coffin in Seamwork magazine

Pressing an open seam
Using a pressing ham

Rouleaux for fabric button loops

Ruffles from Sew Essential, see also Gathering

Seams and seam finishes
Sewing an open (plain) seam
Pressing an open seam

Five seam finishing techniques (Sew Essential)
Getting a better zigzag seam finish
Examples of serged seam finishes from sdBev
Hong Kong and bias bound seams, tutorial from Closet Case Files.

Enclosed or ‘self-finished’ seams :
French seam, curved french seam, mock french seam.
Flat fell seam without a special folding foot, from ejvc.
Flat fell seam ending in a seam split, from Carolyn.
Lapped seams and darts in non-fray fabrics – see half way down this tutorial from The Sewing Workshop.

Fitted armhole sewn ‘in the round’. Strong differences of opinion here. Some people like to sew in a sleeve with the sleeve cap down, next to the feed dogs. I like to sew with the sleeve up. Here is a video from Londa Rohlfling.
Armhole sewn ‘flat’. Here’s a photo tutorial from Blueprints for Sewing, with an easy way of avoiding ugly lumpiness at the underarm.
Square armholes – that way of avoiding underarm lumps doesn’t work with these, I’m planning a post.


Thread bar
Couture method video from Susan Khalje

Burrito method for sewing a lined yoke.

Invisible zipper post.
This free Craftsy video class covers classic (slot seam), invisible, lapped zippers. Does not cover exposed, inset, open ended/ separating, fly or mock fly zips.
This Craftsy video class, not free, includes classic (slot), exposed, fly, invisible, lapped, separating zippers.
Shortening zippers of all types – post from Threads magazine

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See also :
– right side menu for links to sites with guidance for beginner sewers.

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