Technique Index : A – G

Sewing as craftsmanship

Most of these posts are notes on links to good tutorials by other people, but some are tutorials written by me.
Whenever the list of links about a topic got more than screen length on my desktop, I’ve made the topic a separate post !

The most basic processes for wovens :
Using a sewing machine, see top of right side menu (click on header image if menu is not visible).
Seams and seam finishes.
Hems and cut-on casings.
Edge bands and added casings – post in preparation.
For knit fabric seams, hems, neckbands and cuffs – see second Techniques page, linked above header image.
Using a sewing pattern.

The techniques which take your projects from beginner to intermediate :

Buttonholes
Collars
Facings – see below
Plackets
Pockets
Sleeves into armholes
Zippers
(plus fabrics beyond stable plain weaves and double knit interlock – perhaps stripes, sheers, velvet, viscose jersey. . .)

There’s a huge amount of good sewing guidance from these free sites :
pdf :
University of Kentucky – some line diagrams but not very visual.
photo tutorial :
Sure Fit Designs.
Sew Guide covers both sewing and pattern making (fun and encouraging but not the highest quality).
sew4home (search needed, no simple index)
video :
Professor Pincushion (search needed, there is a long list of YouTube videos).
Sure Fit Designs.

Techniques Index H – Z.

These pages mainly list clothes making techniques, but I’ve included a few ‘starter’ links to some other needlework/fibre crafts.

‘Slow Fashion’ . . . shifts the focus away from mass production, profit, and status, towards compassion, self expression, connection and craftsmanship. Blueprints for Sewing.
For links to some guides on self-expression, see the Tools page.

Armholes
Develop your skills with inserting sleeves by using a sequence of techniques.

Basting/ tacking – by hand, machine, basting tape

Bias tape
Cut and fold your own fabric, including special sewing machine feet.

Bias binding
Bias binding covers over an edge, and is visible from both front and back of that edge.
Bias binding, excellent photo tutorial from Brooks Ann Camper.
pdf on binding from The Sewing Place.
Corners in binding, brief instructions for every type of corner, with detailed instructions for pressing curves, in this tutorial from Wearing History.
A lengthy photo tutorial from Sew4Home has many tips on making and using bias strips, also instructions for ’quick and easy’ application of bias binding with a single line of machine stitching.
You can use zigzag or a decorative stitch such as ‘blanket’ (pin) stitch or feather stitch to attach binding.

Bias facing
A bias strip also applied as an edge finish but visible from only one side of the fabric. Most tutorials for this give very wrinkled results, I’m working on a post about how to avoid all the causes of distortion.

Blazer jacket – speed tailoring
List of the top 14 blazer patterns at Pattern Review.
free photo sew-along from Pattern Scissors Cloth.
video classes (not free) from Closet Case Patterns and Sew Over It patterns.
Or see Claire Shaeffer’s ‘couture’ Vogue patterns. Several notched collar ‘classic’ jackets and collarless ‘French’ jackets. Not speedy these !

Burrito method
Examples of using it for lined yokes, lined sleeveless dresses, finishing a shawl collar.

Buttonholes
Machine sewn buttonholes
Hand sewn buttonholes for dressmaking and tailoring.
Sarah Veblen at Pattern Review has a video class on buttonholes and buttons (not free).
And at Craftsy there’s a video class on Creative Closures from Marsha McClintock (also not free).
Snap buttons : How to install snap buttons, photo tutorial from Closet Case patterns.

Collars, these don’t need to be a big challenge to attach.

Crochet
basic instructions with videos from Annie’s Craft Store.

Curved edges
Pivot round a curve
Matching curves – final section of post.
Madeira appliqué is a marvellous method for symmetrical curves on appliqué/patch pockets/visible facings, see this youtube video from Sew Easy Quilts.
Sewing inward (clip) and outward (notch) curves, from sew4home.
Outward curves – for some applications I get a smoother curve by trimming the seam allowances using pinking shears, instead of notching.
Curved hems : see the Hems post.

Cutting out
Many methods, so try them to find which you prefer.
Quality scissors are a marvel.
I have shaky hands so can’t use a rotary cutter without a ruler.
For the same reason I’m a pinner, I don’t just use pattern weights. I use pins about every 4″/10cm, more round a sharp curve.
But I do find it’s worth the extra work of drawing round the pattern onto the fabric and then cutting on the drawn line. I get a much better result than when trying to follow the edge of paper.
The ‘couture’ method uses a pattern without seam allowances. Draw round the pattern, so you have a marked stitching line. Then draw a second line outside that, to mark the cutting line.

Darts – photo tutorial from Sew Me Something.
I prefer to finish darts by changing to a short stitch about 1/2″-1.5cm from the end, and sewing off.

Embellishment
Piece and decorate (Sewingplums).
Hand embroidery stitches – clear videos for stitching, from Needle ‘n Thread.
Free motion stitching.
Embellishment using special purpose presser feet and needles (not free) :
Embellishment techniques, from the Sewing Collection formerly Martha Pullen.
Stitching Cosmos, from Sewing Mastery.
Some Craftsy classes
Creative Closures.
Decorative seams.
Edge finishing techniques.
Heirloom sewing.
Sewing Texture.
Embroidery machine
Start using an embroidery machine – basics.
Start using an embroidery machine – next steps.
Start using an embroidery machine – editing designs.
See also bias binding above, and pockets.

Fabric grain
Straighten the fabric grain
Lay pattern on straight of grain

Fabrics
I haven’t added links about fabrics (except knits) – I just refer to Sandra Betzina’s Fabric Savvy.
For knit fabrics see Techniques Index H-Z.
Also many fabric sewing tips in the videos from Sewing Workshop.

Fabric button loops – see Rouleaux

Facings
Faced slash-slit opening (Sewingplums)
Facings are another area of sewing technique where there are strong differences of opinion. Some people dislike facings. I think proper facings give a lovely high quality effect, much easier to get a good result than with a bias facing strip. But some people think a ‘proper’ facing is unfashionable, and facings do need to be sewn with care.
videos :
Sure Fit Designs
pattern making – 12 min.
sewing – 14 min.
Made to Sew
pattern making – 22 min.
sewing – 37 min.
pdfs :
Facings construction – from the University of Kentucky, click on pdf icon, with drawings.
Sarah Veblen’s facings class at Pattern Review (not free), with photos.

Fastenings
Hooks and eyes, thread loops, snaps.
Couture methods for those, video from Susan Khalje.

Fitting – we all have our own needs and technique preferences, this is my post on some of the options.

Flounces

Circular sections, which have a special effect as the outer free edge is longer than the inner attached edge. Lovely for swirling (or flouncing 😀 ).
2 technical issues :
– attaching the flounce, often sewing 2 different curves together, so staystitch the inner edge then clip so it can be straightened.
– hemming the flounce, see making a narrow hem on a bias edge in Hems post.
Not the same as ruffles, which are straight gathered strips, see Technique Index H-Z.

Gathering stitches, gathering foot – by hand, machine, machine gathering foot, shirring with elastic bobbin thread.
Sew gathered ruffle around hem, Facebook video from Sew Me Something patterns, from 13 minutes.

Gusset, a solution when you need to add in fabric to allow for the depth of your body – but not quick and easy.

Well, the easier method is to add a square with on-grain sides, still needs care with stitching.
A ‘proper’ gusset is more tricky : a diamond shape – treat it with care as it distorts easily with all those bias edges.
Set in where 4 seams meet at underarm or crotch, written tutorial from The Sewing Garden.
Draw the stitching lines onto the gusset, and sew each side separately – stopping at the point where the lines cross, so there is no stitching in the seam allowances. Best to use ‘needle down’, and an open-toe foot so you can see exactly where the needle is stopping. The corners are 3-dimensional shapes, so use a pressing ham.

Vintage underarm gusset set into slash in fabric, photo tutorial from Gertie.

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The index for Techniques H – Z is here.

See also top of right side menu for links to sites with guidance for complete beginner sewers.

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Links on this page checked February 2019

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