Moving on to a separate sleeve

The previous posts are about the simplest top pattern, with cut-on sleeves. And all the variations you can play with, starting from such a pattern.

Cut-on sleeves do not work well for everyone, either for fit or style. So once you’ve gained some confidence from making cut-on sleeves, you may well want to develop a basic pattern with a separate sleeve, which you can vary in the same ways.

Several levels of base pattern with separate sleeves :

– several of the cut-on sleeve patterns have an optional sleeve.
These sleeves have a straight line at the top. They are added to the top before the side-underarm seams are sewn. So the top can lay flat while the sleeves are attached.

– raglan sleeves are very easy to sew, see sleeves and armholes post.

– a casual loose fitting top with slightly curved armhole seam.
As in this example :

from Pinning sleeves to a garment, photo tutorial from Cutting Line Designs.
Also ‘flat-set’, but a bit more complex, as you’re sewing together 2 different curves. See sleeves and armholes post.

– a casual top with a loose fit and loose armhole, no fitting darts.
This is the focus of this post.

– a ‘fitting shell’, close fitted with fitted armhole and body shaping darts. This is what most pattern making books and personal pattern drafting classes try to get you to make. The second section of this post has some easier suggestions, for getting a fitting shell without drafting.

So the main sections in this post are :
– casual top with separate sleeves, casual fit, no darts.
– fitting shell, close fitting and with darts.
– developing a personalised armhole and sleeve cap.
– more variations.

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Casual top

You might start from a fitting shell pattern (see later) and loosen it to be more casual. In fact most pattern making and fitting classes tell you to get your basic casual pattern this way.
But it is much easier to develop an intermediate casual pattern with separate sleeves, looser fit, and no fitting darts, by starting from a similar pattern, without taking all the trouble to get a close fit first.
Perhaps by taking a video class, such as :

Sonya Philip‘s class at Creative Bug includes a basic pdf pattern up to body bust 53″, and is on sewing rather than fitting. See my second cut-on sleeve post for fitting the body, and below on fitting the sleeve and armhole.
Sonya’s book, The Act of Sewing, includes full size traceable paper patterns (up to body bust 56″) for 2 tops : both cut-on sleeve and separate sleeve with fitted armhole. Quarter of the book is on making, quarter on fitting, and half is on pattern hacking and sewing instructions for many variations (there are also simple basic patterns for skirt and pants).

Cal Patch has two video classes at Creative Bug, which show you how to :
– draft a master dress pattern from your own measurements,
– test and refine the fit.

The patterns at Jennifer Lauren Handmade all include cup sizes A-F, up to 62″ body bust sizes. The nearest she gets to a basic top is the top of the Luna Lounge set, with cut-on or separate sleeves, easy add-ons for tunic/dress. Pants included.

There are also basic casual sleeved patterns oriented to helping with fit, such as :
Judy Kessinger’s Fit Nice Master top.
The Sure-Fit master shirt pattern is a casual shape with no darts and looser armholes.

Or take a basic commercial pattern which is like what you are aiming for, make a test garment, and adapt it to your preferences – as in the fit section in the second cut-on sleeve post. You may also want to adapt the fit of the armhole-sleeve cap area, see later section here.

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Fitting shell

If you love fitted styles, you may want to work towards a fitting shell as your starter pattern. Very much the opposite end of pattern making and styling to what the cut-on sleeve posts are about.
The big pattern making college tomes (and many on-line pattern drafting classes) start with drafting a fitting shell. But many people these days don’t wear clothes this closely fitted, so we don’t need a fitting shell. And it is much easier to develop a casual top basic pattern, with separate sleeves, looser fit and without darts, without starting from a fitting shell, as above.

If you do want to develop a personal fitting shell, you haven’t got to start by drafting your own. I’ve tried several pattern drafting methods, and haven’t found one that works well for me. Most of them resort to using ‘average’ measures for some areas, usually areas where I’m not average. I have to spend much time and effort adapting what I have drafted until it fits me. So I might as well have omitted the drafting step, and just do all that adapting and fitting on a starter pattern.
There are several patterns specifically intended to help you with getting a good close bodice fit, such as :

Butterick 5627, up to body bust 44″.
Butterick 5628 up to body bust 54″ is sadly oop but still findable.

McCall’s 2718 up to body bust 48″, includes 5 cup sizes.
If your cup size is above B, try choosing the size by using your (above bust measure +2″/5cm) as your bust size – because most commercial patterns are drafted for a B cup, and that has bust = above bust+2″/5cm. For many people, choosing your size this way should give a better fit on your shoulders.

These patterns from Alison Glass, up to body bust 50″, are available in paper or pdf formats :
Woven essentials.
Knit essentials.

The Sure-Fit master dress pattern aims to produce a fitting shell including darts, up to body bust 62″. Much help with extra fitting adjustments, on the site.

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Fitting your personal armhole and sleeve head

There’s some extra fitting issues to add to all the body widths, lengths and neckline shapes considered in the second cut-on sleeve post – fitting the sleeve and armhole.

Just when I was thinking about all the things I needed to include in talking about sleeve and armhole fit, Sew Sew Live posted an extensive tutorial (not free). You get two downloads :
– a .doc with links to two videos, one on fitting one on sewing (if you have a Mac the .doc will open in .pages).
– a .pdf with summary notes on fitting, and pattern pieces for practicising sewing in a sleeve.

If you look carefully at the time line of the 1hr50min. fitting video, you can see it’s in sections. Hover your cursor over a section, and what it covers appears above the time line. Though I suggest watching the whole thing first, to get oriented to the issues.

There’s also a 13min. video on sewing in a fitted sleeve. Lots of good detail. She sews from the sleeve side, which I prefer. I do use lots of pins, especially at the notches. But there are many sleeve sewing videos, so if you have a favourite, don’t worry about this one.

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Variations

You can have a happy time adding all your favourite variations from my third post on cut-on sleeves to your personal base pattern with separate sleeves. Change style elements, change proportions, celebrate your textile-arts skills and ideas 😀

If you’d like some help with doing the hacking, momosAtelier starts from a casual boxy top with separate sleeves, and includes some sleeve variations (body bust up to 44″, ease 8″). She has many collar and cuff patterns on her site, which could also be added to her (and other) patterns.

If you would like to start from a fitted sleeve pattern with bust darts, there’s Woolfork, up to 64″ body bust.
That dress is combined with knitting patterns here.
She has no pants pattern (see Muna & Broad for those if you’re a larger size).

Style elements
When your base pattern has a separate sleeve, there are also many possible sleeve variations.
When your base pattern has darts, there are many options for moving darts or replacing them with draping.

Here’s a pinterest board with some sleeve style options.
And a post on sewing some of them.
If you like enclosed wrists, here’s a post on sewing placket openings.

If you’d like more guidance on pattern making for changing style elements, there’s the book Make your own dress patterns by Adele Margolis. She starts from a basic fitting shell. But you can apply many of the variations in this book to almost any starter pattern, such as a cut-on sleeve top 😀 This book is till in print after many years, which is a testament to how helpful it is – much easier than the hefty college pattern-making textbooks and many pattern altering online classes.

Judy Kessinger of Fit Nice has several books, with videos, on adapting a basic sleeved pattern to other styles, including jackets. She has a gift for making things easy. She also has pdfs on many individual styles.

Her Fit Nice book Top it off has instructions and videos for 40 top styles. You can watch the videos for free ! not complete sew-alongs but full of ideas.

The books included with the master shirt and master dress patterns from Glenda Sparling of Sure-Fit designs (links above) include many suggestions for ‘hacking’ her patterns. There are also extra books with more supplement designs. And an ‘academy‘ of videos about making other styles from her patterns. Add a selection of pdf pattern leaflets. Most of these ideas can be applied to any base patterns, not just hers.

I’ve already mentioned Sonya Philip’s book, The Act of Sewing, half of which is about style variations.

The possibilities can be overwhelming, so focus on your favourites 😀 😀 😀

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In theory, you can now move on to making a pattern for anything you like!
Which is very exciting 😀
or can definitely seem a bit too daunting.
So perhaps you would like to take a brief time-out to consider what you do like 😀
There are many ‘explore your personal style’ options in this group of posts from Sewingplums.

Good Luck, whatever you choose to do, with your pattern making, fitting, hacking, and embellishing adventures 👍 😀 👍

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The world of cut-on sleeves, 1 : Patterns

Cut-on sleeves make possibly the simplest top pattern. Also possibly infinite variations.
What sort of pattern user are you ? Many types of people may make good use of such a simple style :
Are you a near beginner ?
Someone who likes to make something to wear quickly ?
Someone looking for a simple base to start from while developing your skills? You could use one of these very simple patterns to explore : drafting your own pattern, improving the fit, changing the style and sewing a wide variety of style elements, or embellishing your garments with textile-altering.

What I had to say about these simple tops became a very long post.
So I have divided it into sections :
1. Patterns – purchase or make your own (this post).
2A. Reasons to make a test garment.
2B. Making a test garment, and adjusting for fit and preferences.
2C. An example of a changed pattern, plus how to revise your pattern.
3. Make – techniques to make the underarm-side-seams and neckline of a basic top.

That third post originally also included suggestions for making variations, such as : changing the fabric, style elements, proportions, or adding embellishments. It was another section that became huge. The variations section was separated off as the ideas apply to most patterns not just this simple shape. That variations post in turn became huge, so I’ve further divided it in 3, starting here : Variations.

I haven’t seen it, but the ModularMe course looks as if it goes through this suggestion of starting with fitting and making a simple cut-on sleeve top (with bust dart), then learning to alter it to make more styles. Teaching through videos instead of writing!

This first of my sections focusses on the simplest starting point. Many possibilities for getting a basic pattern for this style. There are two usual features of most of these basic patterns :
– the cut-on sleeves.
– the ‘boxy’ straight sided style.
Of course both are optional, but for easy sewing they make a good starting point.
I have listed :
– a few of the commercially available patterns,
– some guides to drafting your own pattern from your personal measurements.

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Commercial patterns

Here’s one example :

Lou Box Top from SewDIY, up to body bust 58″, neckline has bias facing finish.

with supplements :
add a variety of sleeve lengths.
photo tutorials for sew along and variations.
dress version with choice of 2 sleeves, 2 hems, many pockets.
dress with gathered waist and another neckline shape and pocket.

Here are a couple more patterns with variations included. These companies also have simple patterns for pants and jacket, to make an easy outfit/ capsule.
All Well Workshop (body bust 32″-62″).
Tropical Research (body bust 30″-44″).

Many pattern companies include a cut-on sleeve pattern. I’m mentioning a few which claim to help beginners. See some other cut-on sleeve top patterns on this pinterest board.

Fibr & Cloth is a company that encourages slow hand sewing (though that isn’t essential !) Her patterns go up to body bust 64″, hip 68″. And also have some good skill expansions.
Her Yarrow top/ tunic with shirt-tail hem is a classic cut-on sleeve pattern, with free sleeve extension.

Sonya Philips' book The Act of Sewing includes a full-size cut-on sleeve top pattern (body bust up to 56″), and half the book is on pattern hacking and sewing for style variations.
She also has a Creative Bug class, with video teaching and a pdf pattern.

The Sew Liberated Strata top (body bust up to 55″) also has a sew-along video.

Seamwork magazine has a ‘learn to sew‘ video class which uses their Bo top pattern (up to body bust 54″). This class is only open to members.

There are a couple of links to photo sew-alongs in the Make section in the third post of this group.

Another source of more extended sizes, Muna & Broad’s Torrens top goes up to body bust 64″, and they offer to draft their patterns larger if you need it. Sew-along videos and hacking suggestions.

Elizabeth Suzann has two patterns you can opt to ‘buy’ for free ($0-15) (body bust 29″-58″). These are among the many cut-on sleeve patterns that do not include supplementary support :
a basic pattern with armhole bands
or an interesting shape with unusual armhole openings or sleeve option, plus big pocket option.

A little extra

If you would like a dress version, perhaps try the Sheath dress from The Avid Seamstress. This has an optional invisible zip, and a photo tutorial.

Here’s a slightly more complex ‘box-top but not cut-on sleeve’ pattern, the Peggy top from Sew Girl patterns. It has bust dart, faced neckline and back slit, and flat set sleeves with gathered cuff.
Detailed photo tutorial.
Video, from 2 hrs.

If you’re not looking for the easiest possible top pattern but a cut-on sleeve style really works for you and you’re looking for more of a challenge, the Jasmine top-dress pattern from Dhurata Davies is an example of a more difficult pattern. It has princess seams, big pockets, interesting sleeves, and flounced hem band.

Although I haven’t singled them out here, people with larger bodies may find it best to use pattern lines which have separate patterns for larger sizes. This is because the pattern grading [size of differences between sizes] is different in the two groups of people. For the smaller sizes, perhaps XS to XL, the whole underlying skeleton gets bigger from one size to another. With larger sizes, it is usually what covers the skeleton that gets larger, while features such as shoulder width and arm length do not change.

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Make your own personalised pattern

Video class
If you’d like guidance when drafting your own cut-on sleeve top pattern, Cal Patch has a video class at Creative Bug which covers :
– drafting a pattern from your measurements,
– simple variations,
– sew-along.
Or here is a free photo tutorial from her, at A Verb For Keeping Warm.

And there are multiple diagram guides to drafting your own pattern in the top half of this pinterest board.

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Draw your own pattern
Or you might draw out your own pattern following your own thoughts. On a big sheet of paper, or direct onto the fabric.

One advantage of doing this is to allow for your own body shape.
Would you look better in a flared, straight, or tapered silhouette ?

Cal Patch’s drafting and most of the commercial patterns are for a ‘box top’, which is square or rectangle in shape. These are good for people with a ‘rectangle’ or ‘circle’ body shape.

I’m a ‘triangle/ pear’ body shape with small bust and large hips, so prefer something more flared, like this :

Test garment cut out of Pattern Ease (tunic length on me)

While if you are the opposite, an ‘inverted triangle’ body shape with generous bust and/or shoulders and slim hips, you might prefer to start from a ‘dolman’ shape – try lowering the armholes. This style has lots of ease over bust and shoulders, with a neat trim fit over the hips, like this :

image source

(If you have a small waist, an ‘hourglass’ body shape, you may only be interested in making a cut-on sleeve top as a stepping stone on your way to learning to sew more fitted garments with darts and zips 😀 )

Best to know the widths and lengths you want your garment to be :
– length, measured down from shoulder point (measure the length of favourite garments).
– sleeve length, measure from nape of neck down to where you want the sleeve hem.
– bust, as on flared photo above, or measure the width of a favourite garment.
– sleeve width similarly : half biceps measure + 3″/8cm or more.
The 3″ added width will give you 2 seam allowances plus about 4″/10cm ease between body and garment. You can of course add more, but probably not less until you’re sure what fit you want.

If you plan to wear your top as an overlayer, take your bust, hip and biceps measures over the garments you will be layering over, not just over your underwear !

Not to worry about how good this pattern is. Don’t expect to get the pattern ‘right’ before doing any sewing, as that is close to impossible. The second post in this group is about altering a test garment until it’s comfortable and looks like what you want.
I once followed detailed instructions for drafting a bodice pattern from my measurements. Then made and altered a test garment. There was only one measure out of all I had started from which was unchanged by the time I had got the bodice to fit me.

You can take the pattern to use for a ‘for real’ garment from the altered test garment, also see second post.

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Draw around an existing garment
Or, if taking measurements doesn’t appeal, simply draw around a garment that you know works for you – a tee (if you’re making a pattern for knits) or top (pattern for wovens).


drawing from Illustrated Hassle-Free Make your own clothes book.
Notice they have added seam allowances.

Here’s a free video from Simply Sewing magazine on how to make a cut-on sleeve top without needing a pattern. It uses a similar approach, and shows you how to do it.
Though I must say they don’t know much about beginners when they suggest crepe viscose or sandwashed silk as fabrics – those are fabrics that need extra care with both cutting out and stitching.

– – – – –

So now you have your pattern. Well done 👍
At this stage it’s only a starting point. What are you going to do with it 😀 There are exciting possibilities :
– learn to sew a basic garment.
– revise the pattern until it is the best pattern for you of this style.
– make variations : change the style elements or add embellishments.

The posts in this group on cut-on sleeve tops are :

1. The pattern (this post).

2A. Reasons to make a test garment.
2B. Making a test garment, and adjusting for fit and preferences.
2C. An example of a changed test garment, plus how to revise your pattern.

3. Making a cut-on sleeve top.

The third post initially included a section making variations. Then that section was separated off, and the suggestions are no longer limited just to changing cut-on sleeve tops :
Variations A. Change style elements.
Variations B. Pullover top to jacket/ shirt.
Variations C. Using textile skills, adding embellishments.

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First makes : 2. basic skills needed

The basic sewing processes, for making items from woven fabrics

So now you have your basic tools, and the machine using skills to sew straight lines and around corners and curves.
How do you combine those sewing skills with fabric to make something ? What can you make ? 😀

To make something, you need to know how to cut, fold, press, and generally manipulate fabric into the correct position for sewing – the many little steps needed to complete each specific step in making, such as sewing a seam or a hem. Which themselves build into a major part of a project.

Often the actual stitching is a small part of what is involved in making ! Speedy methods try to leave out as many of these extra processes as possible, which may not give a quality result.

This post introduces the basic making skills used in most projects, with links to posts where you can find out more.
And the next post makes some starter project suggestions for learning them.
These two posts started out as one post, but as usual it expanded until huge and unwieldy. It is also a bit inconvenient to have them separate, but anyway. . .

Many basic tips from Do It Better Yourself Club

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We all have different learning preferences – some of us like to learn slowly with detailed instructions, some love to jump in and have a go. If you’re a jump-in sort of learner, you probably won’t stay with my blog for long 😀 I talk here about what works for me – I’m a cautious learner and I like slow learning with much guidance. You may need to try several courses and patterns before you find what is best for you. As an example, I know a couple of pattern companies which claim to have much better instructions than usual, but which I don’t get on with at all – they always seem to leave out what I want to know.

So, sadly at the beginning of making things, there’s not only learning to use a sewing machine and learning to make things from fabric, there’s also finding teachers and pattern companies which are right for you. I say this not to depress you and make sewing seem even more impossible, but to encourage you that if you don’t get on well at first – maybe it all whizzes by and you can’t understand what’s going on, or you get exasperated that it’s too slow and fussy. Or it’s too wordy, or you need to make something usable not just samples. Or the teacher’s voice annoys you. . . That doesn’t mean you can’t sew. Learning to sew involves many processes, and it may just be that you haven’t yet found the right teacher for you 😀

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Basic making techniques

Skills used in nearly every sewing project :
cut out, sew seams and hems, understand a pattern

Cut and pin fabric, understand how cutting folded fabric works.

Seams and seam finishes.
The first projects need straight seams, with pivoting to go around corners.
Most fabrics ravel – you usually need to finish the seam allowances so your make has a long life.

Later projects include curved seams, which need an extra skill. Hopefully you have practised sewing round a curve (see this post).
You sew a curved seam on the wrong side of the fabric, with right sides together. When you turn the fabric right sides out, there’s an extra step. You need to alter the seam allowances so the fabric will lay flat.

Inward curves – the cut edge needs to go from being shorter than the stitching line to being longer than the stitching line.

Clip so the seam allowance releases and spreads out around the curve when the seam is turned out.

Outward curves – the cut edge needs to go from being longer than the stitching line to being shorter than the stitching line.

Notching removes triangles from the seam allowance so there is no extra bulk from overlapping seam allowances when the seam is turned out.
I try to remove fabric in the notches so when turned out the seam allowances do not have either any lumps or any gaps.

Both these photos and much guidance on how to do both clipping and notching in this post from Sew4Home.

Hems and cut-on casings – simple hems and casings are both made the same way, casings are for elastic or drawstrings.

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Patterns

For the very first projects, there are often instructions which tell you what size of fabric pieces you need to cut.

Later you may want to use patterns, which include a huge wealth of information.
– preparing for sewing (choosing a size, what you need to make the project, cutting out),
– followed by construction instructions.

So, learn to use a sewing pattern to prepare for sewing :

1. on the back of the pattern envelope :
– find what materials and notions you need for your project.

2. the first sections of the pattern pages are preparation, once you have the pattern and fabric, especially how to cut out :
– understand fabric layouts :
– – how to choose the right layout for your chosen pattern view and width of fabric.
– – how to use the layout diagram as a guide to placing pattern pieces on your fabric.
– – including how to cut out folded fabric.

3. on the pattern pieces :
– understand pattern markings, most of which are about placing fabric pieces together, more information in this post.

Once you get past all the preparation information on the back of the pattern and the first pages of instructions, you get to the construction instructions.

Pattern companies differ greatly in their sewing instructions, some instructions are just ‘what to do’ (especially in pattern magazines) and you will need a ‘sewing bible’ about how to do those steps.
Some instructions are ‘how to do it’, with differing levels of detail. Some have no illustrations, some have diagrams or photos – which may or may not be easy to understand.
Some stop giving instructions when things get difficult to describe – the opposite of what you want !
Some companies aim to have helpful instructions, and do much pattern testing before the patterns are issued, to check not only that the patterns fit well but also that the instructions are easy to understand.
Some have sew-alongs which expand on the instructions supplied. Some acknowledge that people have different learning styles, and include videos.
Some companies are obviously only interested in design, and their instructions are minimal.
Some people don’t want to follow instructions anyway.

We choose our favourite pattern companies not just by their clothes style but also by their instructions style. It may take quite a bit of exploring, until you find ones which give the sort of instructions you enjoy using.

No need to understand about sizes at this stage.

Paper patterns are easier to use than home-printed pdfs, but you may need to know how to print and assemble a pdf pattern.

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Skills needed for many simple projects, but not in every project :
thread through a casing, make straps, sew patch pockets, hand sew an opening closed, add trims and patches

Thread elastic/drawstring through a casing
Video from Seamwork, first minute shows basic technique.
I have never had problems with doing this, but I’m a slow and ‘check everything’ sewist anyway. Many problem solving tips in this photo post from Sewaholic patterns.

You may also need to stitch the ends of the elastic together, and stitch to close the opening used for threading the elastic through the casing. Pattern instructions usually tell you how to do these.

Make a strap or belt :
2 main methods :
– folded – easiest, most patterns have adequate instructions for this.
– turned out – often more help needed, see this post.

Add patch pockets.

Hand sew an opening closed (see overcasting or ladder stitch).

Add trims such as :
– lace strip, fringe, pom-pom trim, ric-rac, ribbon, fake fur strip. These trims just need to be attached with a line of stitching, test if it’s best to use straight stitches or zigzag. (Adding bias binding and piping are skills to learn later.)
– machine or hand sewn decorative stitches. Find out how to use your machine to make decorative stitches, pin tucks, and use different feet and needles. There are many ways of exploring machine decorative techniques, here are a couple of video classes.
You can opt to do none of this, or spend a lifetime exploring.
See the first Techniques page for some links on Embellishment techniques, including hand embroidery.

Add appliqué patches – there are bought ones that stick on, others need zigzagging round the edge.
Or make your own – just cut out a favourite piece of fabric and attach in one of these ways :
– straight stitch round the edge for ‘raw edge’ appliqué.
– zigzag round the edge.
– turn in the edges and straight stitch close to the fold.
– fuse the fabric to double sided fusible web, cut out the shape and fuse it to the item you’re making. Have fun with the shape 😀

–

Some fabrics are easier to sew : here are the Fabrics for beginners suggested by Mood Fabrics.

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I don’t do well with learning skills separately from a project in which the skill is used. For some project suggestions for learning these skills, one new step at a time, see this post.

Whee, there’s a huge amount to learn when you start sewing, but at last we’re getting somewhere ! 😀 !
Take it slowly if you like to, there are many things you can enjoy making at every stage of learning 👍

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