Pattern ‘hacking’

Adapting a pattern to make different styles is easy, and fits in with the current emphasis on re-cycling.
If you want to make your own styles, there’s no need to draft your own starter block, or work through one of the big pattern making textbooks. You can just alter a similar pattern – which is what RTW designers do.

Patterns are not untouchable. It’s not wicked or dangerous to alter them, they’re tools, and they can be starting points. Trace off the pattern pieces so you keep the originals. Then you can alter both the pattern pieces and the making instructions in any way you feel happy with.

If your re-designs don’t come out ‘right’ first time, no need to think that means you’re no good at it. Professional pattern and RTW designers make several test garments until they get the proportions and position of style elements to match up to their ideas of what they want.

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Simple specific changes to a given pattern

Most of my posts on pattern making are at Sewingplums.
Simple methods of altering a pattern are listed in this post from Sewingplums.
If you’d like more help, there are many suggestions in this post on simple pattern altering.
See also this page of Sewingplums – Pattern altering to make new styles (click link to go to section on ‘altering patterns’).

Dozens of simplified patterns at Sew Guide.

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If you prefer someone to do the pattern work for you
This post from Sewingplums has links to many patterns with extensive variations (patterns available mid-2017).

Some of the sources available since that was written :
Atelier Charlotte Auzou, choose patterns for bodice, sleeves, skirt.
Named Clothing patterns Anni building blocks, for a princess seamed bodice with a variety of sleeves and skirts/pants.
Simplicity patterns ‘Hacking’ patterns.

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Start with a few basic patterns and make style variations

If those don’t include your own design vision :
no need to draft your own personal blocks to make new styles.
Several pattern companies and books provide the base patterns to start from, and suggest style variations.

The simplest basic patterns
If you prefer a more casual outfit, All Well Workshop patterns have a simple boxy top (body bust 32″-62″) and kimono-like jacket with cut-on sleeves, both with detailed sewing instructions and a ‘hacking guide’ for making many variations.
Complete the outfit with some elastic-waist pants (body hips 34″-70″) with choice of pockets and waistband. Do your own hacking of them by changing the leg length, adding elastic to the hems and, when you’re feeling adventurous, changing the leg shape.

And a similar shape from Tropical Research. Also patterns for pants and jacket. The pants pattern includes the hacks I’ve suggested above. The coat/jacket has many more options, and what look like good instructions.

There’s another ‘box top hacking’ pattern from momosAtelier. She also has many patterns for collars, another way of making many different looking styles from the same basic shape.

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For more fitted styles, it’s best to get the fit of the starter pattern right before you alter it to make another style. That way, the new pattern will probably fit well too without any more fitting work. So this approach is popular with people who have to make many fit alterations to commercial patterns – we only have to do the fitting work once !

Pattern companies which supply base patterns with personal fitting instructions, plus many style variations :
Many of the variation instructions could be applied to other patterns with a little thought.

It’s easiest when the pattern company provides the pattern pieces you need to make other styles.
Fit For Art has basic patterns for jacket, pants, knit top (body bust 30″-58″). Patterns and videos with extensive fitting instructions. The separate patterns for variations include ready-made pattern pieces.

Most pattern companies which specialise in this approach to patterns give you instructions on how to draft the new pattern pieces you need for yourself.
Alison Glass Essentials (scroll well down), basic patterns for woven fabric and knit fabric dresses (body bust 31″-50″). Pattern includes instructions for fitting and style changes.
Curated by In The Folds issues 6 patterns a year (body bust 30″-52″) with much fitting guidance and hacking instruction.
Fit Nice has basic patterns to your measurements for top, pants (body bust 32″-42″, instructions for enlarging). Some videos. Separate patterns are photo tutorials for variations.
Sure Fit Designs has basic patterns for dress, shirt, pants (body bust 28″-62″). Many posts and videos about fit adjustments. Pattern booklets describe how to draft many variations, more variations can be bought separately. There are also pattern change videos at SewFit Academy.

Books which include starting-point patterns and instructions for many style variations :

in print :
If you’d like a gentle introduction to pattern changing, there are several books which provide the pattern pieces needed ready made, such as :
The Magic Pattern Book by Amy Barickman, 6 basic patterns and 6 versions of each.
Named Patterns Building the Pattern book by the Huhta sisters has 6 basic patterns with pattern pieces to convert them to 20 styles, presented in an ‘improve your sewing’ sequence.
Sew Many Dresses, so little time by Tanya Whelan has interchangeable bodices, sleeves, and skirts. If you have a good pants pattern you could probably make jumpsuits too.
Here’s a similar source for girl’s dresses, from Oliver & S.

The next books suggest pattern variations and tell you how to draft the new pattern pieces yourself :
The Act of Sewing by Sonya Philip, full size paper patterns need tracing, for cut-on sleeve top, sleeved shirt, skirt, pants (body bust 32″-58″). Quarter of the book is on making those 4 garments, quarter on improving the fit, and half the book is instructions for choose-your-own variations. No darts, collars, zips, or knit fabrics. Instructions for changing necklines and adding buttonholes, facings, gathers, pleats, pockets, yokes, also for piecing, flaring or narrowing pattern pieces. At about advanced beginner level of sewing, but if you like casual wear that will be all you need 😀
Slightly easier but similar pdf patterns and sew-alongs with a few variations are in her video classes at Creative Bug.

The Dressmaking book by Alison Smith aims to teach both garment sewing (to high intermediate level) and pattern alteration, with several specific variations of each pattern included. Pdf patterns, diagrams of how to make the pattern changes.

Cal Patch’s book also tells you how to draft the starter patterns to your own measurements. Her Design It Yourself Clothes book has simplified block drafting instructions, plus instructions for many specific variations. Written pattern making instructions with few illustrations, minimal sewing instructions. Difficulty about half way between the 2 previous books. I like her video classes at Creative Bug.

out of print :
Many books mentioned in the Sewingplums posts linked above, and especially in Favourite books – pattern altering.

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Getting ideas

Patterns and books are the easy starting point for understanding pattern changes, as they have simple starting point patterns and simple alterations all sorted out for you.

If you’d like more inspiration about making pattern changes, perhaps look at one of the pattern magazines. For example ‘Burda Style’ usually has several different styles made from the same basic pattern, and it’s interesting to look at how the patterns have been adapted to make this possible.

These jackets are from one issue of Burda Style (over a decade ago, patterns not now available) – the same basic shape used for a classic ‘french’ jacket, a party cover up, military and sporty styles, simply by changing the added style elements and fabrics. Another casual option would be a centre front zip and hood. Or – a basic convertible collar is just a rectangle, add one to the neckline to make a camp shirt or casual jacket.

See these pinterest boards for many ideas for style elements :
necklines and collars, yokes, sleeves and cuffs, pockets.
And these boards for alternate styles of the main garment types :
blouse-shirt, skirt-dress, pants, jacket-coat.

If you’d just like help with altering sleeves ? Here’s a statement sleeves e-book from Workshop patterns.

Adele Margolis Make your own dress patterns could be a good source for making many of these styles. Does not include base patterns (she assumes you start from a commercial fitting pattern). But clear instructions for making many style elements. First edition 1985 but good enough it’s still in print !

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Many routes to starting on making your own styles, if the thought of that appeals ! You can be very creative without going all the way to full scope pattern making 😀

Enjoy the process 😀

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Elastic-waist pants – videos and patterns

Often sewing teachers think elastic waist pants are the easiest first garment to make, so there are many videos. These are just some of them.

Some videos are aimed at making pyjamas, some pants.  Usually the only difference is that pyjamas have looser fit.  Just change fabric to change between making pants and pjs.
Sew Over It Ultimate pyjamas
Some videos are aimed at beginners and claim to have fuller instructions. Pyjamas may be easier for beginners, as it doesn’t matter how well they’re made  😀

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Basic sewing skills needed :

If you need to start your sewing with learning how to use a sewing machine, here’s the first of two posts.  
For guidance on the basic sewing skills used, see this post.

Then perhaps make an elastic waist skirt. You need to be able to : sew and finish a straight seam, add a hem and a waist casing.

More sewing skills used in making elastic waist pants :
– sew round a curve,

– join together two leg tubes
There are a couple of methods for doing this :
1. Sew leg (optional side seams then) in-seams first, then put one leg inside the other to sew the crotch seam. This is the best method, used in most patterns beyond beginners.
Turn one leg right side out, then slide that into the other leg so they are right sides together. It’s then easy to sew the crotch seam.

Here are a couple of YouTube videos from Jacqueline Doctor Johnson, teaching machinists.
Leg seams, from 0.45.
Combining legs.
If you prefer a photo sew along, here’s one from Sew Over It patterns.

(image from Sew Over It Pomegranate pyjamas)

2. In the other method the side seams are sewn last. May give a lumpy result at the crotch. Two versions :
2.1 : sew the crotch seams first, and then the inseams. Easier to understand – though beware sewing the inseams instead of the crotch seams. Unless you’re making mini- or kid’s shorts, the in-seams are longer than the crotch seams.
2.2 : sew the inseams first, then the crotch seams.

Here’s a video from Lori Griffiths showing both methods.
The F/B labels appear on both sides of the fabric – note that the letters read correctly on the wrong side of the fabric, and are reversed on the right side. It would be easier if she had used fabric with right and wrong sides !
0-4.45 – method mentioned second above,
4.45-end – first method.

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Topics covered in this post :

The main section here is on making elastic waist pants/pyjamas from woven fabrics. As they are a classic basic, there are many patterns.  These are some of the ones with support videos.  (I haven’t included images for these patterns as the basics all look much the same.)

As people in shutdown have been discovering the pleasures of wearing comfy pants, I’ve also included some elastic-waist pant patterns with classier or more interesting style but no video  😀

Plus a couple of ‘patterns’ from companies with a radically different approach 😀

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Woven fabric

Free class :
Craftsy – free video – make your own pj pattern with side seams by copying an existing pair, then sew.

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Classes with video and pdf pattern bought together :
no side seams :
Thrifty Stitcher – pyjama pants for all ages and both sexes, part of a good sewing course for complete beginners. Includes using a sewing machine. The other courses mentioned here assume you know how to use one !

with side seams :
Sew Over It – Ultimate pyjamas, part of sewing course for beginners, optional in-seam pockets.

Sonya Philip’s 100 Acts of Sewing pants pattern comes in paper and pdf versions. The pattern has optional in-seam pockets and hem ruffle.
Her sew-along video class at Creative Bug includes a pdf pattern but not printable instructions. The same extra styles. Largest hip body size 64″/165cm.

Elastic-waist pants are the first garment made in Sew Liberated patterns’ Learn To Sew course. Class is expensive but very detailed, there are 6 hours of video (53 lessons), with both pdf download and paper pattern included.
Or go small : For infants and toddlers, from Rae Hoekstra at Creative Bug.

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DVD/ on-line course and paper pattern bought separately :
Palmer-Pletsch, part of sewing course for beginners : pattern for pyjamas with side seams, instructional DVD (assumes you have worked through the previous two DVDs).

Louise Cutting at Taunton Workshops online video course goes with Cutting Line One-seam pants pattern.

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Pattern with free video

Patterns for Pirates – pjs, video link in instructions.

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More advanced pant styles with videos and pdf patterns – add a pocket :

Closet Core patterns Pietra pants, part of learn to sew course.

Sew Over It – Carrie pants, in pants making course.

Wardrobe By Me Easy pants with free video

Muna & Broad make patterns for hip 41″ – 71″, and say they will grade up for larger. These patterns are good for anyone with a deep torso, as they have extra long crotch extensions. These two patterns are for beginners, and include pockets :

Muna & Broad Birchgrove pants with tapered legs, with free 45min. video.

Muna & Broad Glebe with straight legs, one option has back elastic only, with free 40min. video.

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Patterns with photo sew-alongs
If you prefer the gentle self-pacing of a photo tutorial, here are a couple of detailed ones with extra design features.

pattern : Pio pants from Ready To Sew.
photo tutorial
hack to overalls

pattern : Sew Girl Elsie culottes.
photo tutorial

I haven’t gone on a general search for patterns with photo sew-alongs !

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Elastic-waist patterns without video
The videos and photo sew-alongs support beginners looking for help with the easiest patterns.

Nearly every pattern line has at least one elastic-waist pant pattern, so this is just a very small selection. If your favourite pattern line has some which I haven’t mentioned, of course celebrate them.

Deer & Doe Acajou pants

Megan Nielsen Opal pants

       Merchant & Mills 101 trouser

        Paper Theory Miller trouser

Pattern Fantastique Cove pants

       Sew Liberated Arenite pants

Elizabeth Suzann Clyde work pants

If you find a pattern you like, except the legs are too wide, here’s a photo tutorial on tapering them from Jalie.

Some more unusual approaches to a pattern

Zero-waste, mark out the pattern on the fabric :
A very different elastic waist pant and skirt pattern, the wide-legged Zero-Waste pant from Birgitta Helmersson.

There is no pattern, just a Cutting Plan booklet for marking cutting lines direct on the fabric. Separate cutting plans for 10 sizes (body hips 34″-58″). You need to be comfortable with making some calculations to mark out the cutting lines.
Here’s a blog post from them with more chat about the pattern.

Pattern generator uses personal measurements, with many style options :
Another interesting pattern is from Apostrophe patterns. They claim to supply patterns to your personal measurements. Their joggers pattern is for woven or knit fabric (as well as your measurements, you tell them the stretch of the fabric you are using). Multiple options for waistline treatments, back yokes, pockets, leg lengths and shapes, hem cuffs.

You buy access to a Pattern Generator, not a final pattern. So you can use it as often as you like, to get a pdf pattern for every style and fabric you are interested in, and using the measurements of all your family members and friends.

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More variations

Here’s a post from Fit for Art on changing elastic waistbands – applies to any pattern, not just theirs.

The elastic-waist pants in the Saf-T pockets Two for the Road pattern include several pockets which aim to make things more difficult for pick-pockets.

Or if you’re looking for inspiration for using fabric scraps, here’s some examples (no pattern for sale).
There is a pattern from Pavelka.

If you would like to try drafting your own pattern, Cal Patch has a video class at Creative Bug, which includes both drafting and sewing elastic-waist pants with optional slant pockets.

Or you could make your pants a different way instead, learn to hand sew as a form of meditation. Fibr&Cloth has instructions for hand-sewing your favourite e-w pants. Her most suggested pants pattern is the 100 Acts of Sewing one.

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What about elastic-waist pants made from knit fabrics ?
Elastic-waist pants make a good first garment in woven fabrics, though you can make them in knit fabrics too. Stable knits such as ponte or fleece could be a good first choice, as they do not change shape much while being cut or sewn. But they do still need different technique, as they need stretch not straight stitches.

Leggings can make a good first garment for learning to sew knit fabric. They do raise rather different issues of fit and sewing technique, so here’s a separate post on leggings.

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There are many more elastic waist patterns. But with the ones listed here, you can develop sewing confidence. After some first timid steps while making your first ever pyjama pants, you can perhaps repeat the same pattern until you feel confident. Then move on to another pattern with more challenging techniques, such as a more complex waist casing, or a variety of pockets.
😀 😀 😀

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Links and patterns available January 2023

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