Have difficulty threading a needle ?
Have nearly as much trouble getting a piece of wire into a needle eye as a piece of thread ?

There are 4 main types of extra help with threading needles :

Easier to get the thread in the hole :
Calyx eye needles – end slot hand sewing needles.
Side slot needles – available for both hand and machine.
Pusher type threading tools – for both hand and machine needles.
Help with seeing what you’re doing :
Conventional wire needle threaders with magnifying lens or light (I’m not commenting on these).

As well of course as the fine hooks used in the threaders built into some sewing machines.
And I have a note on help with threading serger/ overlocker loopers.

People have strongly different opinions on these tools, so do try some for yourself !

Here’s what works for me, for both hand and machine sewing.
Many people find ‘self threading’ hand sewing needles useful for finishing off short ends of thread, as in quilting.
I’m commenting as someone with shaky hands, I don’t personally know how helpful these tools are for someone with severe arthritis or limited vision.

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Calyx-eye hand sewing needles

I find these self-threading needles much easier to use than a conventional wire-loop needle threader.
But there were some things I needed to know before I could use them without hassle.

image source

Put the thread into the V-slot in the end of the needle.
Give a sharp tug, and instant-amazement the needle is threaded.
I started by moving the thread into the slot. Now I find it easier to move the needle onto the thread.

Do buy quality.
Buying cheap ones is just a way of throwing away money. It’s not that cheap needles do the job badly, they don’t do the job at all. They either shred the thread or the thread pulls straight out when you take your first stitch. Before I tried a quality one, I spent some time thinking self-threading needles are unusable.

Quality ones eventually wear out and stop holding the thread, but that shouldn’t happen for a while.

I haven’t tried all brands. I’ve had good experiences with Clover brand. Here’s an enthusiastic review of Prym brand from Tasia at Sewaholic.

Don’t waste time and energy trying to get the thread into the second hole. It won’t go and it isn’t supposed to.
That lower hole provides a bit more ‘spring’ for the end of the needle that opens up as you pull the thread through.

It used to take me several minutes to thread a needle and now not – hurrah. I enjoy hand sewing but a wire-loop needle threader is nearly as difficult as thread for me. Using these, and the pusher-type threaders below, is near miraculous for someone like me with shaky hands.

Here’s a tutorial on using these needles, specifically for people with limited vision.

Calyx eye needles only come in general purpose sewing sizes, there are none for tapestry, crewel embroidery etc. Though it is quite a bit easier to use a wire-type needle threader with the large eye of a crewel needle or a tapestry needle.

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Slot in the side

Here’s the main web-site of the Spiral Eye company.

These look interesting but are expensive to import to the UK so I haven’t tried one.

They have at least 2 advantages :
– they are available in a wider range of hand sewing needle sizes,
– they are available as sewing machine needles too.

Schmetz also make ‘quick threading machine needles’, which simply have a small slot in the side of the eye.
Instructions for using them here.
Universal point needle, sizes 80 and 90. I’m planning to try these.

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Pusher-type threaders

Sewing machine needles

My previous sewing machine had a built-in needle threader which I found easy to use.
The needle threader on my new machine is not the same (or perhaps my hands are shakier than they were).
Anyway, I now find it easier to use a pusher type threader. (I also take off the presser foot, for easy all-round access.)


Have the machine needle at its highest position, so you have room to work.
Put the thread horizontally into the V of the threader (they only work one way – have the triangle and hook shape on top) and hold it somewhat taught. Move the threader slowly and gently down the front of the machine needle while putting a little pressure on the pusher. The device should push a thread loop through the eye of the needle.

These threaders may be a bit temperamental – there’s a knack to using them, and the fine wire that pokes the thread through the needle eye can bend easily. Avoid the cheap ones, which work rarely if at all. I use a Dritz one, expensive but it works almost every time.

Hand sewing needles

Many people are enthusiastic about pusher-type devices for threading hand sewing needles, but I haven’t done well with them.
They only work for a small range of sizes of needle, so check if they’re suitable for purpose.
Here’s the Clover version. The one I tried would only take small size fine hand sewing needles.
There are one needle size and two needle size versions from other companies.

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Serger/ overlocker needles and loopers

Most serger/ overlockers use the same needles as sewing machines, so pusher needle threaders should work on them as well. Bernina issue a pusher threader with some of their serger/overlockers.

There are long looper threaders, they are like the wire loop hand sewing needle threaders but on a long wire, so not much use to me as I can’t thread them any more easily than I can the loopers. . .

For help with threading looper holes, here are some suggestions – though they do assume you have space in front of the hole for getting at it.

Do try to find a serger /overlocker which has help with making it easier to get at the lower looper hole.
If you can’t visit a dealer or show to try out a machine, these days it is easy to download a free manual for most machine models, so you can check before buying one how easy the looper threading is. The diagrams of the process may look complex and daunting, just look for a machine which has clearly labelled guides and a tool for moving the lower looper temporarily into an easy access position.

For looper holes that thread from front to back, try a pusher threader.
You’ll need tweezers to grab the loop of thread behind the hole, as most sergers don’t have room for fingers in that space !

For looper holes that thread from back to front, try a fine crochet hook for pulling the thread forward through the hole.
You need what is called a ’steel hook’ or ’thread hook’, with the shaft no wider than the hook.


Check the length of handle will work in the space available in your serger/ overlocker.

Measure the width of the holes in your loopers in millimetres, as you will need a hook about 1 mm smaller than that.
Many of these hooks give their size in mm. Here’s a table for conversion from mm to USA and UK crochet hook sizes.

I thought people didn’t do fine crochet work anymore, but there are many choices for these hooks from places like Amazon.

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In the days when all sewing was done by hand, it needed specialist metal-working skills and tools to make any needle, and they were expensive.
We are lucky to have these marvellous modern threading helper inventions.
Good Luck for finding ones which meet your needs.

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Links available July 2016

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