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Monthly Archives: June 2016

How a sewing machine works

13 Monday Jun 2016

Posted by sewingplums in Technique

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Even the simplest sewing machine is a sophisticated machine tool. The mechanics of getting a machine to sew posed a similar problem to the first aeroplane : there were several very different design features which all needed to be right before the thing would work at all.

Here’s an animation of the clever way the machine makes its lockstitch.

If you prefer something slower, here’s a pdf with detail about the mechanism.

Here’s an entertaining UK documentary about the history of sewing machine mechanisms (26 mins.)

Another documentary about the history of sewing machines, this time from the US and not free, Still Stitching (100 mins.) A paean of praise to the mechanical machine.

Machines have to be manufactured.
Here’s an amazing (silent, black and white) documentary about the huge factory in Scotland which made Singer black and gold machines in their heyday (70 mins.). Also incidentally a clear reminder about changes in manufacturing. That was before computers and laser measuring. 80 years ago the film was made to show off marvellous modern methods !
In complete contrast, here are a few minutes in a Bernina modern factory (though admittedly that is for their long-arm machine, which are made to order not mass-produced).

Basic sewing machines are still entirely mechanical. They just need position and speed control skills to operate them successfully.
Top-of-the-line machines also include quite complex computing and communications technologies, with special software for controlling stitching patterns. The stitching may be controlled by the machine, but those machines need much knowledge to make full use of all the facilities available.

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Using PDF download patterns

11 Saturday Jun 2016

Posted by sewingplums in Technique

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Buying pdf download print-at-home patterns on-line is a happy way of getting instant pattern gratification and frittering away small sums of money. But do try the complete process before buying many of them. Some people find the assembly process excruciatingly boring, and are happy to spend the extra time and money on waiting for a paper pattern to ship !

Here are instructions for assembling a tiled pattern.

There are 2 styles of print out pattern.

The usual ones have an overlap border on each page, so the overlap has to be trimmed away from 2 sides of each page before you can tape them together. I find it helps to have a routine for this – I always trim the top and left sides (some people trim the right and bottom – you choose another combination !). I don’t mind doing this, I find it a ‘quiet sit’ activity.
Here’s photo tutorial about using pdf patterns from Thread Theory, only a little of it is specific to their patterns.

Less often, the pages are printed without overlap borders, so the pages have to be butted together.
There’s an extremely detailed photo tutorial or video from the Sussex Seamstress. Includes full instructions about printing as well as assembling.
Here’s a video tutorial from Hot Patterns, with also much general guidance.
Personally I don’t do well with butted together patterns. I find US patterns don’t match up accurately on A4 paper, even if they claim they do. Not impossible but some judgement is needed. 1/8″ to 1/4″ or 3-5mm mismatches, so it won’t matter at all if you’re making a fitting toile first ! Perhaps it’s the same for printing European patterns on US paper.

If you trace your assembled pattern before using, here’s a suggestion for skipping the taping-together step.

Personally, I find the pages slide around. I need to fix them together with removable tape (well worth the expense), before taping them together finally or tracing them. But I’m not a person who’s only happy when using the quickest method!

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  • Cut-on sleeves, 2C : Example, revise pattern
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Recent Posts

  • Cut-on sleeves, 2C : Example, revise pattern
  • Cut-on sleeves, 2B : Fit and favourites
  • Cut-on sleeves, 2A : Make a test garment
  • Beginners 1 B : Some big learn to sew courses
  • Simple style variations C : textile skills

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