Cut and fold your own bias tape

Bias tape is often used as an edge finish.
It’s cut at an angle across the fabric, so it’s very stretchy and can go round curves.

In many applications it is folded before it’s applied.
You can buy it pre-cut and pre-folded.
But how can you cut it and fold it yourself ?

Here’s a general photo tutorial about bias tape, from Dana at MADE. Early sections of that post show the different types of bias and what they can be used for.

There are 2 ways of folding bias. Single fold (actually 2 folds) and double fold (3 folds).
A 2″ wide bias fabric strip folds to :
1″ single fold tape
1/2″ double fold tape.

In cross-section the folds are like this :

To add to the confusion about names, it is now difficult to buy pre-folded ‘double fold’ tape, and many suppliers call the tape with 2 folds double fold tape.

Want to make bias tape from your own choice of fabric ?
But don’t want to waste fabric in large unused triangles. Or sew dozens of little seams. Followed by all that fiddly folding.
Happily modern methods avoid all those problems.

The first sections of this post are about cutting and folding the bias tape.
The final section is about special presser feet for sewing on the binding.

There is a second post on sewing bias binding and bias facing.

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Cutting and sewing

If you just want a relatively short piece, for marking the starter cut it’s helpful to have a quilter’s ruler, as they have a 45º bias line marked on them.

Making a longer bias strip from a square of fabric :
Diagrams from All Well Workshop, with associated video – cutting from a 12″ / 30cm square.
More detail in this video from Deborah Moebes of Whipstitch – cutting from a fat quarter.

Trim the fabric edges so corners are square before starting this process.
It is much easier to do the marking if you have a long graduated ruler, like a quilting ruler.
I start marking the strips from the edge away from the seam. That way, the unwanted bit you trim off has some of the seam in it.

Cut bias strips twice the width of the final pressed ‘single fold’ tape you want.
For example, if you want 1/2″ wide single fold tape, mark and cut 1″ wide strips.

This is the usual size in clothes patterns, as it’s the size of the most common ready-folded tape.
If your fabric is very stretchy, you may like to check if you get a better result by cutting the strips 1/8″-1/4″ wider.

And here’s how to make a very long length of bias binding, from Megan Nielsen patterns.

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Folding – Single fold tape folded by using a bias maker

It isn’t always necessary to use pre-folded bias tape, so check the pattern instructions before doing this step.

The size name of the bias tape is the folded width, not the fabric strip width.



The range of Clover bias makers :

The size is colour coded :
. . . . single fold strip made from cut strip gives double fold strip (inches)
green . . .1/4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1/2
yellow . . 1/2. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 . . . . . . . . . 1/4
red . . . . . 3/4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-1/2 . . . . . 3/8
blue . . . . 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 . . . . . . . . . 1/2
black . . . 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 . . . . . . . . . 1

Here’s a video on using a bias maker, from Deborah Moebes at Whipstitch. She’s using 1-1/2″ fabric strips with a 3/4″ bias maker.

Videos makes it look easy, but there is a knack to it. Make sure the fabric stays in a smooth U-shape as it goes into the maker. Where seams go through the maker the strip may need more careful pressing afterwards.

Some tutorials tell you to pull the bias strip through the maker, but it’s much easier to pull the maker along the strip.
Some people show making the bias with the folded edges upwards, some with them downwards. Try both and see which you prefer. Or do both – I start with the folds up and do a final press with the folds down.

(You can also get tape makers which add fusible tape to the bias while it’s pressed. Used more in quilting than in clothes making.)

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Two tools combined

Fold and press single fold tape

This amazingly expensive gizmo combines folding tool and iron. It disappeared for a while but is now available again.

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Fold and sew double fold binding using a presser foot

You can attach bias binding without using a special presser foot, see bias techniques, and probably get a more elegant result, but it takes longer 😀

A sewing machine binding foot folds the bias strip as you sew.
Several styles of foot, but they all work the same way – a shaper which folds the bias strip, and a middle slot which takes the fabric edge you want to bind.

You can also use this foot to make spaghetti straps.

Bias tape used for binding is double fold tape – the first fold which turns the edges in, then the second which folds the tape in half.

Here’s a video from Missy Billingsley.
There are several videos which show the person using the foot to make both folds. You need to feed the strip into the foot carefully, do much test stitching to check it is folding correctly, then keep a careful continuous eye on it while stitching. I confess I have not yet managed to develop this skill.

Most binder feet do the second (centre) fold and hold the tape in place, but work better with the first (edge) folds already done (see diagram at top of post). So buy commercial single fold tape, or make your own with a bias tape maker. And then use the binder presser foot to fold it and sew it around your fabric edge.

(Bernina bias feet can do all the folding for you. Their feet have 2 parts, a presser foot and a folder-guide which attaches to the needle plate. They provide separate folder-guides for pre-folded and unfolded tape, and for different widths of bias. Very expensive – you could buy a lot of fabric for the cost of a complete set 😀 )

Here’s a photo tutorial from SeeKateSew about a more sophisticated foot which you can adjust to sew different widths of bias tape.
Here’s a video on using this adjustable foot. This video does tell you to use a tape maker to make the first folds before using the foot to make the second fold and attach the tape.
This foot claims to be generic but it doesn’t fit all machines, so check it works on yours.

There’s another knack to holding in place both the tape and the fabric being bound. So practice before doing this for real.
And make test samples to get the needle in the best place for sewing your specific fabrics.
Some people never get to be happy with the result.

And yet more skill and practice needed to use these attachments when sewing round curves and corners. There is a tutorial on sewing corners using pre-folded bias tape, from about 3 minutes in this video from Bernina.

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Many useful tricks and tools to help us make and sew our own bias tape more quickly.
Well worth exploring if this is a look you like.

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Originally written February 2015, links checked September 2022

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Invisible zipper

2019 : This post describes the classic method.
There’s now a much easier method, using a zipper at least 2-3″ longer than the opening, a haemostat or tweezers, and a conventional zipper foot. See this invisible zipper video from Kenneth D. King at Threads magazine.
Or, if you prefer, here’s a photo tutorial for the easier method from Sew Essential.

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I think sewing an invisible zip by the classic method is a rite-of-passage for dressmakers !
Invisible zips look lovely if they’re done well, but sewing them can be difficult to get your head round. It’s the opposite of sewing a conventional zip.

I tried to learn from the internet and got very confused. A multitude of methods, most not well explained.
I couldn’t understand about pressing the zip. Until I opened one and saw that it folds over on itself.

The best written instructions I found are in Vogue Sewing 1982. So here they are, with my comments added – so much to say, this post is long.

This method uses an invisible zip foot. There’s no need to press the zip, as the foot rolls the zip coils into place. The foot also puts the stitching in the right position next to the coils.
So it’s my favourite method.

More skill needed to use a conventional zipper foot, as you have to choose where to place the stitching.
Notes at the end of this post on sewing an invisible zip using a conventional zipper foot.

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Preparation

Fit your invisible zip foot to your machine. With the pointy bit towards you. That unfolds the zip coil into the foot groove.
You can get a foot specifically for your machine.
There are generic ones supposed to work on any machine with the same foot attachment. I have a generic foot, but it doesn’t fit my machine. There are two standard widths of clip-on feet, so check a generic foot fits your machine before buying !

Quick foot recognition : Several presser feet have two grooves on the bottom. An invisble zipper foot usually has a narrow needle hole, plus the piece at the front for unfolding the zip. Cording and pintuck feet also have bottom grooves, but have a needle hole wide enough for zigzag stitch or twin needle.

Check your zip. Conventional zips with plastic coils and invisible zips look similar. Both types have one side where the coils show, one flat side.
On an invisible zip, the zip pull is on the flat side. The flat side is the front. When you open the zip, you find the coils are folded back.
On a conventional zip, the zip pull is on the same side as the coils. The flat side is the back. Faces into the garment, so the zip feels smooth against the skin.

Use a zip at least 1-1/2”/ 3-4 cm longer than the finished zip opening, so you can move the zipper pull out of the way while stitching.

It helps to mark the stitching lines on the right side of the fabric – makes it easier to position the zip.

If your fabric has ‘give’, fuse strips of interfacing under the stitching lines to stabilise the fabric.

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Method adapted from Vogue Sewing 1982

The invisible zipper, which has no rows of stitching on the outside of the garment, must be stitched with a special invisible zipper foot.
Unlike other zippers, the invisible zipper is applied to the opening edges before the remainder of the seam is stitched. It’s also stitched from the right side of flat fabric.

Step 1 – right side of zip

(Blue is right side of fabric, white is wrong side of fabric. Zip opening is at left side of this drawing.)
Open the zipper and place it face down on the right side of the fabric.  (The pull tab is at the bottom of the zip, the back of it is shown in that diagram.  The face of the zip is the smooth side.)
Have the folded teeth/coils lying on the seamline and the tape in the seam allowance.
Lower the right hand groove of the foot over the teeth (hold the coil to the right to get it started into the groove)
and stitch from upper edge to pull tab.
Back stitch at both ends of stitching.

An invisible zipper foot places the stitching at the correct distance from the coils (for most fabrics).
If you’re using a conventional zipper foot, try to stitch down the ‘fold line’ of the zip. Further away from the coils and the zip won’t be invisible. Too close and the zip may not open and close.

Trim threads closely. Coil zippers get damaged easily when you try to pull out threads caught in the coils.

Step 2 – left side of zip

Close the zipper.
Fold the first piece of fabric back from the zip. Place the zip face down on the second piece of fabric, teeth/coils of the zip on the stitching line.
Pin or baste as desired.
If you need to match the fabrics, draw a line across the zip at an easily recognisable point.

Open the zipper
and stitch with the left hand groove of the foot over the teeth.

Step 3 – seam

Close the zipper.

To finish the seam below the zipper, slide the zipper foot to the left.
If your foot won’t move sideways, try moving the needle to the right.
My invisible zip foot doesn’t slide, and is too wide to move the needle past it. I use a conventional zipper foot for this step, placed to the left with the needle to the right.

Pull the end tapes of the zip out of the way.
Make sure the rows of stitching at the bottom of the 2 sides of the zip are aligned sideways (push a pin through to check).
The ends of the 2 rows of stitching are unlikely to align lengthwise, that doesn’t matter.
I pin the seam allowances together at the bottom of the zip, to make sure they’re out of the way.

Lower the needle and begin stitching just slightly above and to the left of the last zip stitches. About 1/16”/ 1 mm left. Further away and you’ll get a pucker of fabric at the bottom of the zip.
The first time I tried this I had to do it several times before I was happy with the result. I still sew the first couple of inches and check, before completing the seam.

Stitch seam closed.
Backstitch at beginning and end of seam.

Step 4 – neaten end of zipper

To complete the application, machine stitch the zipper tape ends to the seam allowances.

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If you haven’t got an invisible zipper foot

If you’re using a conventional zipper foot, press the zip coils flat :
Open the zip
and place it on the ironing surface with coils up.
Press the zip coils away from the zip tape, so they’re a bit flattened but not squashed. You want the zip unfolded, but so you can still see the fold line.

Then sew in the same way as above, but set the zipper foot so you can sew in the ‘fold line’ close to the zip coils.

Step 1 – right side of zip – zip foot to left of zip coils, on zip tape.
Step 2 – left side of zip – zip foot to right of zip coils, on zip tape.

Once you know the process, you can unfold the zip coil with a finger as you sew. No need to press the zip flat first.

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With thanks to the book Vogue Sewing 1982, which includes the text and diagrams on which this is based.

There are many methods for sewing an invisible zip, using different presser feet and ways of pressing.
Some experts prefer an adjustable conventional zipper foot, because you choose your own placement for the stitching. So, for example, you can allow for the thickness of the fabric.
Experiment to find a method that you’re comfortable with.

When you’ve done this a few times, hopefully it will all be clear and simple 😀

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Originally written February 2015, updated with links to ‘modern’ method 2019

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Common fit challenges

Where is it obvious that Ready To Wear clothes don’t fit you well ?
Where does the fabric strain ?
Where does the fabric sag ?

If RTW doesn’t fit you well in that way, then sewing patterns are not likely to either. Because both are designed for an ‘average’ shape person.

It is possible to have beautifully fitting clothes when you make your own clothes. But you do need to alter the pattern to do that fitting.

3 main sections in this post :
– common fit challenges,
– methods of fitting commercial patterns,
– note on making your own patterns from a well fitting starter block.

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Fit challenges

Here are the most common differences from average you may need to allow for.
If your waist isn’t obvious, take it as an inch/ 2-3 cm above your belly button.

tall – petite

broad – narrow shoulders
square – sloping shoulders
forward shoulders
high round back

long – short arms
sleeves tight – baggy

forward neck
gaping neckline

long – short from shoulder to waist
underarm not half way between shoulders and waist

full – small bust
bust point high – low, wider apart – closer together
wide back

large – small waist

sway (hollow) back
high hip shelf
wide – narrow hips

long – short between waist and crotch
fuller – flatter seat or tummy
deeper – shallower from front to back at bottom of torso

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Which of these has a big effect on the look and comfort of your clothes ?
Change your patterns to fit and you’ll be the only person who knows about them !

How many special body features have you got !
Put them in order of importance.
Work on them in turn.
You may find when you’ve dealt with the biggest issues, some of the others disappear.
You may find you have to return to some issues, as later changes affect earlier ones.

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Fitting commercial patterns

Fit is a huge topic. And there are many fitting methods. People have strong preferences. Here are some to try.

I suggest Nancy Zieman Pattern Fitting with confidence for fitting beginners. Clear and simple for the ‘pivot and slide’ method, with many diagrams. (You do have to redraw the pattern. Get used to the idea that a pattern is just a starting point !)

Though that book is not complete. ‘Pivot and slide’ works well for many fit changes, but not for bust or crotch. For these, you need to ‘slash and spread’ the pattern to get the added fabric where it’s needed. Here’s some starter guidance :

– Full bust adjustment. Adding fabric across and up-down the front needs bigger darts and changed armhole shape. A good FBA adds fabric while keeping the same length stitching lines. See this Sewingplums post Note on the FBA. Links at the end of that post to pattern lines which include different cup sizes.

– Large rear or tummy or thighs, or deep torso. Added fabric wedges do change stitching line lengths, and alter pant crotch shape. See this Sewingplums post on Fabric wedges below the waist.

Still unsatisfied after you’ve made these common fit adjustments ?
Have a look at the fitting ‘bible’ Fitting and Pattern Alteration by Liechty and Co., which includes 88 body shape features.

Or try ‘reading the wrinkles’. You don’t need to know the name of your difference from average, or how big the difference is. You make a test garment and move the fabric around until the strains and sags disappear. Try Sarah Veblen’s Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting. She also has on-line classes at Pattern Review and Taunton Workshops.

I haven’t mentioned the ’tissue fitting’ method. It’s almost impossible to do without help. Even with expert help the result is only good with a limited range of styles, as paper and half garments don’t behave in the same way as fabric and complete garments.

Making a trial garment to get the fit and proportions right may seem like a lot of unnecessary work. The early stages of exploring fitting methods and finding what works for you can be very dispiriting. But the more you come to value quality, the more you’ll learn that this extra work has huge pay-offs in how good your clothes look.

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Personal pattern making blocks

There are two very different stages to the formal method of making your own patterns :
– getting well fitting basic pattern blocks/ slopers,
– altering these to make other styles.
If the starter blocks fit well, then the styles made from them will fit well too. Hurrah !
There’s another huge world of guidance about these. Personal pattern block drafting methods, and pattern making software, deal with about half the fit challenges listed above, about quarter of the challenges covered by Liechty & Co, also above.
So they may not solve your fitting problems without some adjustment using the methods in the previous section. But it is worth doing the fitting work to get good personal blocks, for several reasons :
– if you want to do your own designing.
– so you know what fits you well, to use when changing the fit of commercial patterns.
Several posts on this approach at Sewingplums.

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It’s unlikely you’ll get your fit all right in one step.
Many people find getting a good fit is quite a lengthy process.

So remember that each little step makes your clothes fit better than Ready To Wear. 😀

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