A basic sewing machine

Buy a machine with basic facilities.
Hopefully you will be able to pay a little more than the minimum price, to get a machine with :
– variable length and width of stitches,
– a buttonhole,
– the ability to change stitching speed by how heavily you press on the foot pedal.
If you have a choice, try to find a machine on which the presser foot lifting lever is near the position in which you will have your hand while stitching – it does make it less effort to pivot.

Sadly many bottom-of-the-range machines are more trouble than they are worth. May be barely controllable and not stitch well. Best not to buy one on-line ! Though if you have the luck to be able to go to a store – if they are willing to demo, or let you try, their cheapest machines, they’re not likely to show something that could cause them embarrassment !

So you need some help with finding which cheap machines are good. Here’s a post from a UK sewing magazine about good cheap sewing machines. Beware Brother uses different model numbers in the UK and USA, and 2 of the recommended machines are UK store models though made by Janome. The magazine (Simply Sewing) is good so hopefully they are reliable about this, though they do get a commission for their recommendations.

You’ll be able to do most garment, home dec and crafts sewing on a basic machine.
The next step up will probably also have :
– a needle-up-down function,
– a speed control, so you can sew slowly – one stitch at a time under the control of the foot pedal.
– a ‘free arm’, which makes it easier to sew small items such as children’s clothes and sleeve and leg hems.

When you feel confident with using a basic machine, you may know what extra facilities you would like to move on to (see this post about the various special machine options).
But buying a ‘better’ machine is something for later.
There’s a lot to learn to make even the simplest sewing project. And it’s not a good idea to try to learn that all that at the same time as learning how to use a complex sewing machine.

Many advisors tell you to buy a machine you can grow into, but I say the opposite – if you do that it’s likely to stay in the box. A beginner won’t know enough to be able to find their way through all the options.

So a good secondhand basic machine is a better buy than a cheap modern machine which doesn’t sew well, isn’t easy to control the speed or adjust the tension, and may not allow you to change the length or width of the stitch. A good secondhand machine is also a better buy for a beginner than a good expensive machine which has such a big choice of functions it’s too complex for someone who isn’t confident with sewing basics to understand.

Some of the options

Some confusing words about the technology:
A ‘manually operated‘ machine is not powered by electricity, you provide the power by turning a hand wheel or operating a foot treadle. Not many available to purchase new, but a refurbished one can be an excellent buy second-hand.
Hand-crank machines and old treadles are straight-stitch only, but perfectly usable.
Modern treadles have a small selection of different stitches including zigzag and buttonhole.

A ‘mechanical‘ machine is powered by electricity but all the setting changes are made using buttons or levers. You can tell them from electronic and computerised machines because they have no display screen.
A basic electric ‘mechanical’ machine is a good starter buy as they have zigzag, 4-step buttonhole, often a few simple decorative stitches.

This guide from Sew Liberated patterns says much the same thing, with a few more specific tips.

An ‘electronic‘ machine will have a display screen, and possibly more figurative decorative stitches, such as flowers and leaves. And a 1-step buttonhole.
A ‘computerised‘ machine will also have a memory so you can make sequences of decorative stitches. A top-level machine may have so many options it is difficult to learn to use. Various levels of screen for these, from simple dot/matrix letters and numbers to tablet-like touch screens with full size realistic images and multiple colours.

Mechanical or electronic/ computerised ?
Both ‘electronic’ and ‘computerised’ machines have a powered display panel, which may be anything from simple dot letters to full colour fine detail touch screens. Fun, if that’s what you enjoy. But it’s not necessary – there are many people who produce clothes of couture quality on a basic mechanical machine.
Touching a screen instead of pressing buttons is not the important issue for a beginner. A more high-level machine may have many options which a beginner knows nothing about, so does not know how to make the choices and gets very confused.

I know I am going on about this, but there’s no point spending a lot of money on a machine which you’re frightened of because you don’t know enough about sewing to know what to try when it doesn’t do what you expect. I had been sewing for decades before I treated myself to my present machine. I now love it, but it does not have a good manual, and it took me months (and many screams and tears) before I learned how to use all the options. And the manufacturers recommended it for beginners – oh dear ! (It’s a Bernina 4 series. I do recommend Bernina 3 series for beginners, but they are expensive, at the luxury end of the basic machine market.)

One area where a modern ‘electronic’ machine makes sewing easier is that it has a 1-step automatic buttonhole. A modern ‘mechanical’ machine usually has a 4-step buttonhole, and the user has to start and stop each step. You can make good buttonholes with these, but they need a bit of practice (see this buttonholes post).

One or more stitches ?
A straight stitch sewing machine is enough for most projects.

In fact most clothes manufacturing is done on a straight stitch machine. But manufacturers do have sergers/ overlockers for seam finishing and sewing knit fabrics. If you want one machine that can finish seams and sew knits, as well as do the main sewing on woven fabrics, you need a basic machine that can sew zigzag as well as straight stitch.

Top loading or front loading bobbin ?
I learned to sew using a front loading bobbin with separate bobbin case. It does have a couple of advantages :
– if the bobbin thread runs out in the middle of stitching, you don’t have to take your work out of the machine to change the bobbin. On the other hand – you can’t see the bobbin, so you can’t tell when you start stitching that the thread is about to run out !
– for later if you’re interested : some special types of machine embroidery need you to use different types of thread in the bobbin. This can only be done with a separate bobbin case.

Most modern machines have a top-loading bobbin, and many people find them easier. I grew up with a front-loading bobbin, so don’t have problems with them. More important : I did once briefly have a machine with top-loading bobbin, but with my shaky hands I found it close to impossible to get the thread into the slot at the side of the bobbin.

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You can find marvellous sewing machine bargains from charity shops.
Otherwise it’s worth paying a bit more to get a guarantee.
Not always possible these days, but it is worth more to buy from a specialist dealer who provides sewing advice and convenient repairs.

In an ideal world where you can get to a dealer, you have a chance to try out different machines. Sometimes you just get on better with one machine than another, because of the facilities and the buttonhole or the ‘feel’.

I’ve owned 6 machines and not ‘bonded’ with 2 of them.
One because it only had 2 speeds – 0 and very fast – so I couldn’t do the quality sewing I enjoy.

One because I just didn’t like the look of it – trivial I know but it affected my pleasure in sewing.
There are angular machines and curvy ones, machines covered in flowers or dogs. The Oekaki machine was so ‘high concept’ that it was not available for long.
You can also buy stickers to decorate your machine, such as these from Urban Elementz.
It’s good to find a machine that matches your style.

If you can’t get to a dealer, try to find videos of the models you’re interested in, as they give some idea. For example, from the videos I know I wouldn’t actually enjoy using a top-of-the-line machine !

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Presser feet

Extra presser feet can be a treat to have, and make many sewing processes much easier. But most of them aren’t essential.

There are only a few important special feet. Though a complete beginner doesn’t need them.
– if you use zigzag as an edging stitch it’s good to have an ‘overcast’ foot, which stops the fabric from being pulled up by the zigzag.
‘Advanced beginners’ will want :
– zipper foot, for zips, piping, etc.
– buttonhole foot.
Most modern machines come with these feet.

Some good specials :
– an ‘edge stitch’ foot, for a near miraculous improvement in top-stitching quality.
– if you like using dense decorative stitches or thicker threads you’ll want an ’embroidery’ foot, which has a channel underneath so it doesn’t catch on the thick amounts of thread making up the stitch.

(Here’s a video from Lucy of Sew Essential, who has a completely different opinion about important feet 😀 )

There are dozens of other special feet, which you may enjoy exploring later.

If you’re tempted by a cheap ‘generic’ foot, check that it will work on your make and model of machine. Snap-on feet holders are not all the same.

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When you know more about sewing, you may like to invest in a machine with more special facilities. If so, here’s a post about some of the options.

But you can make high quality clothing and home dec using a very simple machine, so long as it has a high quality easily controlled straight stitch for sewing woven fabrics, plus zigzag for finishing fabric edges and sewing knits and stretch fabrics.

Some people get overwhelmed / intimidated by all the choices on a more complex machine. While for some people, it’s exploring all the fancy possibilities of new technology that gives the pleasure.

For most of us it’s the sewing that is the focus, and we want to do that on a machine that has minimum problems.
So for a beginner, I think it’s best to invest in stitch quality rather than fancy facilities.

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And once you have your machine, here are some tips on learning to use it 😀 😀 😀

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Stretch stitch settings on a sewing machine

These are some stitches used for sewing knits on a conventional sewing machine.

On my machine I have to flip some of the stitches horizontally to get the main stitching line on the left.

Notice the main stitching line of these stretch stitches is at the edge of the stitch.
So, to get the stitching in the right place, the centre of the presser foot needs to be to the right of the seam line.

Here are the easiest settings to use for doing this :

Set the stitch width to 6 or 6.5.
(5 mm if this is the widest stitch your machine can do.)

6 and 6.5 mm are a smidgen either side of 1/4”.
So the middle of the stitch is 1/8” from its edge.
To get the main stitching line on the seam line, and the rest of the stitch in the seam allowance, the centre of the presser foot needs to be 1/8” to the right of the seam line.

(red line marks centre of presser foot)

As we usually sew relative to the edge of the fabric, this means :

pattern with 5/8” seam allowances :
keep the centre of the presser foot 1/2” from the edge of the fabric.

pattern with 1/2” seam allowances :
keep the centre of the presser foot 3/8” from the edge of the fabric.

pattern with 3/8” seam allowances :
keep the centre of the presser foot 1/4” from the edge of the fabric.

Takes a bit of explaining and getting your head round, but get in the habit of using these settings and you won’t have to think about it again :
Stitch width : 6 or 6.5
Presser foot 1/2″ from edge of fabric (for 5/8″ s/as).

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Does this matter ?

If you sew with the centre of the presser foot on the seam line, this makes the stitching line 1/8″ to the left of the seam line.
1/8” taken off each side seam of a top or pant leg reduces the total size by 1/2”.
Not important perhaps on a loose fit tee or sweat shirt and pants.

Won’t have much effect when sewing a ‘front-back-sleeve set in flat’ top, or ‘front-back-cut on waist casing’ bottom.
But styles with more pattern pieces assume the stitching line is in a particular place. If it isn’t, the pattern pieces won’t match up together properly.

And on a skin-fit tee, or a garment with negative ease such as a leotard or swimsuit, making it even a little smaller may make it very uncomfortable or even impossible to get on.

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This is just one point about using a conventional machine to sew knit fabrics.
Here’s a post with main links to guidance on sewing knits with a standard sewing machine.

That post has tips for making samples, to choose the right stitch for your fabric.
Good luck with gaining confidence in sewing knits without needing a serger/overlocker.

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Sewing Knit Fabrics on a sewing machine

It’s easy to sew knits on a conventional sewing machine instead of a serger/ overlocker.
The inside of the garment doesn’t look the same as RTW, but the garment will wear as well.

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Written tutorials

Here’s a post from Tilly and the Buttons on cutting out knit fabrics.

Here’s a general post from Melly Sews on the stitches you can use for sewing knits.
Her first suggestions are versions of zigzag done on a domestic machine.
2 thread coverstitch and 4 thread overlock need special machines.

Tutorial from Coletterie on bands and bindings for knit edges.

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Videos – free

I haven’t watched most of the videos, so no guarantee of quality.

Here’s an intro from Ann Steeves of Gorgeous Fabrics.

Free pdf patterns and videos on sewing knits with a regular machine from Angela Kane.

Videos – not free

Some on-line video classes specifically on learning to sew knit fabrics using a conventional sewing machine :

Look around at Creative Bug.
I didn’t get on well with making a one-hour top with cut on sleeves, but there are many other classes there on drafting and sewing a tee, dress, hoodie, leggings, including for children.

Tilly and the Buttons
pdf pattern and sew-along for stylish tops.

Sew Over It
Intro to sewing knits, making a dress from a stable knit, then a top for more stretchy fabric – pdf patterns.

See ‘knits fabrics’ section of the second Techniques page, for links to many other tutorials on sewing knits.

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Some intro comments

You can sew knits on any machine which has a zigzag stitch.

Use a ‘ball’ or ‘stretch’ needle for knit fabrics. ‘Stretch’ needles are designed for sewing more closely woven stretch fabrics. On a knit fabric : try both, also a ‘universal’ needle, as different machines give a better result with different needles – no idea why !

Polyester thread has more natural stretch and recovery than cotton thread.
There are also several stretch threads, it’s not necessary to use them – better to use a stretch stitch (see below).

It may be helpful to use an overcasting foot. These have a flange or spike which stops the thread from pulling tight and crumpling the fabric. But test that the needle doesn’t hit this foot during making the stitch, by stitching by hand (turn the hand wheel) one move at a time.

If you need some seams not to have any stretch (such as at shoulders), use a stabiliser such as (bias) stay tape or tricot interfacing.
It’s not enough just to use a straight (non-stretch) stitch – the thread will probably ‘pop’ (break).
For a bit of stretch with good recovery, use clear/swimwear elastic.
Fold-over elastic makes an easy edge finish.

Stitches

For best results you can’t just put your foot to the pedal. You need to make test samples to find what’s best for a specific fabric.

You can use plain zigzag.  
The ‘wobble’ stitch is .5 wide and 2.5-3 long.
Sew a sample of this and test if the stitching stretches as much as the fabric. If not, change the stitch and try again.
Make samples sewing the fabric both widthways and lengthways, they probably stretch differently.

Better if your machine has some special stretch stitches.
Even the simplest modern sewing machines have a few ‘utility’ stitches.

Some stretch stitches to try.
On my machine these are called, from left :
– 3-step zigzag, each zig consists of 3 short stitches,
– blind hem,
– overcast,
– closed overlock.

For seams that look like a conventional seam from the right side : use one of the 3 stitches to the right.
Take care with the position of the stitching. Notice the stitching line is on the left, not in the centre of the presser foot.
Here’s a note on getting the presser foot in the right place
Stretch stitch settings on a sewing machine

There’s another ‘3-step’ stitch, not on all machines, which I find works well for me when sewing knits.

After stitching, trim the seam allowances.
Trim off the allowances a little beyond the stitching. Make sure not to snip through the thread.

For knit fabrics that fray or run : use a stitch which has a line of stitching on the right edge as well, such as the ‘closed overlock’.
For loose open lace or sweater knits : sew the seam with a narrow zigzag (1.5 wide, 2.5-3 long). Finish the edges with a wide zigzag (3 wide or more).

Different knits and stretch fabrics stretch different amounts lengthwise and crosswise.
Test several zigzag stitch widths and lengths, and other stretch stitches, to find which stretches the same amount as the fabric. Test both directions of the fabric.

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Tricot – French for ‘knit’.
In French it’s pronounced ‘tree-coh’. In some countries it’s pronounced ‘try-cott’.

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First written December 2014, links checked November 2021 (sadly some good ones have disappeared)

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