Overcasting and Whipstitch/ Overhanding

Overcasting and whipstitch/ overhanding use a similar motion, but they’re different size stitches used for different purposes.

See post on starting and finishing hand stitching

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Overcasting

(image source)

Often sewn over 1 layer of edge.

Used to be used for finishing seam allowance edges before the serger/ overlocker was available,
Still used in couture clothes on the few fabric edges that aren’t covered by lining.

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Whipstitch/ Overhanding

Sewn narrower than overcasting.

Take small stitches, as the result is flattened out after sewing, and the smaller the stitches the smaller the ridge left.

Best to baste the 2 edges together before stitching, as it’s only possible to sew small stitches if the 2 edges are closely aligned.

Main uses :

1. Sewing two folded edges together

Used to be used for rough tough seams when clothes were made by hand.
Still very useful for closing gaps in seams that take a lot of strain.
And much used for sewing two patches together in the hand-sewn English Paper Piecing (EPP) method of making patchwork.

With neat stitching this can also be sewn from the right side, as a decorative effect.

2. Adding trim to an edge – Two methods :

The simplest method is ;
– finish the edge by sewing a narrow hem along it.
– place trim and fabric right sides together and align edges to be joined.
– overhand the trim along the edge.
– flatten out and press.

The second method is more difficult to understand, but leaves no separate stitching showing for the hem :

First hem fold : Fold the fabric edge to the right side, less than 1/8″ wide.
Second fold : Fold to the front again to make a narrow double fold hem.
Third fold : Think of the first fold as marking a line along the body of the fabric. Fold all to the back along that line, so the 1st and 3rd folded edges are aligned.

Baste to hold all the folds in place.
Overhand the trim to the 2 aligned folded edges.

This method does work around a not-too-sharp curve without distorting the fabric.
But it’s not good with thick fabric.

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Most of the images come from old sewing instruction books, but the links no longer work and I had not kept a record of which books they came from.

First written March 2014

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Starting and finishing hand stitching

Many people dislike hand sewing intensely, but it is needed for many higher quality sewing processes.

On the other hand many people like the gentle slowness.

So choose which type of sewing you like to do – quick or slow, machine based or by hand. . .

I didn’t manage to find one good overall guide to basic hand sewing techniques – nearly every tutorial I’ve picked out as a good one comes from a different source.

I have several separate posts planned on individual hand stitches. This is about common methods for starting and finishing.

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Starting hand stitching

1. Threading a needle and making a knot
Combined photo and video tutorial from Wiki

Only use a knot if you’re doing permanent stitching.
Don’t use a knot if you want the stitching to pull out easily later.

2. Double stitching
If you want security without the lumpiness of a knot, use double/ back stitching to start your thread. Just sew again over the stitch a couple of times – staying in the same place rather than moving on.


Put this stitching somewhere hidden, such as the double fold of a hem, if possible.

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Finishing hand sewing firmly

1. Double/ back stitching
As for starting the stitching.

2. Securing/ lock/ knotted back stitch
Add a lock stitch to the backstitches.
Here is a good photo tutorial from Crochet’NCrafts.

3. Threading back under the previous stitches
Here’a a photo tutorial from the marvellous embroidery site, Needle ‘n Thread.

Done on the back of the work, so doesn’t show on the front, and much used by embroiderers.
Needs to be done quite thoroughly to be strong and not slip out.

4. With a knot
Several ways of doing this, here’s a photo tutorial from Instructables.

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Links available March 2014

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Make your own pressing tools – wood

This is about making your own wooden pressing tools : sleeve board, pressing board, tailoring board, point presser and clapper. They must be made from real wood, which absorbs heat and steam, not chip board, veneer, etc.

There’s another post about making your own pressing tools from fabric : ironing board cover, pressing ham, and pressing mitt.

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Sleeve board

A small narrow ironing board, for pressing tubes such as sleeves and pant legs.
Written instructions on making a sleeve board, from The Curious Kiwi (includes pattern template, scroll well down, it looks unlikely at first).

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Pressing Board

A ‘pressing board’ is a pressing surface like an ironing board but larger. Here’s a photo tutorial from bridal dressmaker Brooks Ann Camper about making a table version. Use the same instructions for making a smaller area that you can put on a table.

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Tailor’s board

image from The Curious Kiwi

A complex looking object with many odd corners for pressing awkward spots.

Happily these are being made again, though not so easy to get hold of. Amazon has them in the US.

And you can make your own.
Photo instructions for making one, in the previous tutorial from The Curious Kiwi, scroll well down.
The pattern she uses is from the University of Kentucky, pdf here.
Or here’s a pattern from a Russian site in metric measures, each square is .5cm. The photo looks different, but that’s because the tool is lying on its other side.

Here is a video from Threads magazine about how to use one.
And another video, this one from Nancy Zieman.

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Point Presser and Clapper

Simpler wooden shapes are much more readily available. Many sources for buying a ‘point presser and clapper’.

That one comes from ebay.

Some versions have a blunt end. It is important the end comes to a point, so it can get into corners.
Here’s a video on making one.
There’s a pattern and instructions in the U.of Kentucky pdf linked earlier.
There is another video on making one which is more of an advertisement for an amazing range of power equipment. . .

I like to press open the seams at corners, using a point presser.
So do add those tapered corners if you can.

Clapper
Or just make a clapper (the base in the photo). Must be made from real wood. Much used after steaming fabrics. The wood absorbs the steam, while the flat area holds in the heat and continues the pressing but without danger of singeing.
Many applications in this video from Nancy’s Notions.

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Unlike an iron, these extra pressing tools aren’t essential for good sewing.
Though a sleeve board is excellent for pressing sleeve and pant leg seams.
The other tools are useful, and it could be fun to make them 😀

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Originally written March 2014, updated November 2021.

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